Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it just me or has this thread gone full circle a few times?

The best way to avoid shutter from an aftermarket bov is to tune to match or keep the stock one and avoid the shutter, is that pretty much where we have landed on this?

  • Like 2

I think that is the general consensus. Taking steps to ensure you don't have boost or vacuum leaks and checking for restrictìon pill or using proper hose that doesn't "suck in" may help but in the end it's use stock, a good adjustable one or get a tune ?

Edited by Reaperblitz
  On 18/12/2015 at 4:04 AM, Artwear said:

Is it just me or has this thread gone full circle a few times?

The best way to avoid shutter from an aftermarket bov is to tune to match or keep the stock one and avoid the shutter, is that pretty much where we have landed on this?

nah. but. what about 'insert something irrelevant'

Yer, well my Turbosmart Kompact still shudders with the soft spring and I'm pretty sure it's opening on boost too.

Seem to have varying spool / boost levels

There was better spool with the standard spring.

The shudder is on pigeon sound, which means the BOV ain't releasing enough at low boost

The FV series valves are supposed to open more on vacuum than single spring types.

Worth trying , especially if it reduces strain on the shaft, and stops me spilling my coffee.

These are selling for over $400 from some sellers.

Scored one for $145

Just waiting on a 29mm recirc adapter from Nengun.

The trumpets unscrew and the adapters fit all three models.

See the fake has silver retainer ring on the base.

I also noticed the Greddy sticker is shit on the fake too.

The spring is way harder to push in and you can hear it grind when it travels.

I sent pics to Greddy, they confirmed it was a fake.

Looking inside the genuine one, the difference in quality is huge.

See how it goes.

post-25026-0-16278900-1450420872_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772
  On 18/12/2015 at 7:00 AM, conan7772 said:

Yer, well my Turbosmart Kompact still shudders with the soft spring and I'm pretty sure it's opening on boost too.

Seem to have varying spool / boost levels

There was better spool with the standard spring.

The shudder is on pigeon sound, which means the BOV ain't releasing enough at low boost

The FV series valves are supposed to open more on vacuum than single spring types.

Worth trying , especially if it reduces strain on the shaft, and stops me spilling my coffee.

These are selling for over $400 from some sellers.

Scored one for $145

Just waiting on a 29mm recirc adapter from Nengun.

The trumpets unscrew and the adapters fit all three models.

See the fake has silver retainer ring on the base.

I also noticed the Greddy sticker is shit on the fake too.

The spring is way harder to push in and you can hear it grind when it travels.

I sent pics to Greddy, they confirmed it was a fake.

Looking inside the genuine one, the difference in quality is huge.

See how it goes.

either fit stock back or tune the car, otherwise you will always get pigeon sound whatever you use which brand BOV/soft spring

also if you can develop some electric solenoid valve controlled BOV like modern VW/Audi/BMW/Benz, you can also get rid of the pigeon sound

Edited by YangLIU

My suggestion, block the kent off and see what the response is like. It is a good way to see what the boost is actually doing too. Do you have a good boost gauge? The only time I have seen shuddering is when the car is running over 20psi untuned.

Mutt,

The Nissan adapter faces the return either up or down.

Meaning I'll need an elbow off the bov, down hits the engine, up bonnet won't close.

Haven't dry fitted yet but it doesn't look good.

I'll have to make my own adapter I think like this one.

post-25026-0-14323300-1450944966_thumb.jpg

post-25026-0-72403700-1450947862_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772

I just fitted a stock M35 BOV into a 33gtst, bolts straight in, so I have no idea what's going on there...

The only car I have seen where I couldn't get rid of the juddering was actually running 21psi due to having a 1 bar actuator and still running the stock bleed circuit. What boost does it run on a big uphill stomp? If it's too much that will be your answer. the stock ecu is in protection mode and dumping fuel.

It mostly shudders when I back off at 3-5 psi

Here's the adapter I have.

It puts the vent up or down, not to the side where it needs to be.

Nengun sell one for the RB25DET with all the holes in line.

post-25026-0-23377400-1451023974_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772

Yeah that is defiantly the wrong adapter plat you just need one where all the blots holes are in a strait line. Best look at your bov and where the bolt holes are and do some research into a suitable adapter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...