Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it just me or has this thread gone full circle a few times?

The best way to avoid shutter from an aftermarket bov is to tune to match or keep the stock one and avoid the shutter, is that pretty much where we have landed on this?

  • Like 2

I think that is the general consensus. Taking steps to ensure you don't have boost or vacuum leaks and checking for restrictìon pill or using proper hose that doesn't "suck in" may help but in the end it's use stock, a good adjustable one or get a tune ?

Edited by Reaperblitz

Is it just me or has this thread gone full circle a few times?

The best way to avoid shutter from an aftermarket bov is to tune to match or keep the stock one and avoid the shutter, is that pretty much where we have landed on this?

nah. but. what about 'insert something irrelevant'

Yer, well my Turbosmart Kompact still shudders with the soft spring and I'm pretty sure it's opening on boost too.

Seem to have varying spool / boost levels

There was better spool with the standard spring.

The shudder is on pigeon sound, which means the BOV ain't releasing enough at low boost

The FV series valves are supposed to open more on vacuum than single spring types.

Worth trying , especially if it reduces strain on the shaft, and stops me spilling my coffee.

These are selling for over $400 from some sellers.

Scored one for $145

Just waiting on a 29mm recirc adapter from Nengun.

The trumpets unscrew and the adapters fit all three models.

See the fake has silver retainer ring on the base.

I also noticed the Greddy sticker is shit on the fake too.

The spring is way harder to push in and you can hear it grind when it travels.

I sent pics to Greddy, they confirmed it was a fake.

Looking inside the genuine one, the difference in quality is huge.

See how it goes.

post-25026-0-16278900-1450420872_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772

Yer, well my Turbosmart Kompact still shudders with the soft spring and I'm pretty sure it's opening on boost too.

Seem to have varying spool / boost levels

There was better spool with the standard spring.

The shudder is on pigeon sound, which means the BOV ain't releasing enough at low boost

The FV series valves are supposed to open more on vacuum than single spring types.

Worth trying , especially if it reduces strain on the shaft, and stops me spilling my coffee.

These are selling for over $400 from some sellers.

Scored one for $145

Just waiting on a 29mm recirc adapter from Nengun.

The trumpets unscrew and the adapters fit all three models.

See the fake has silver retainer ring on the base.

I also noticed the Greddy sticker is shit on the fake too.

The spring is way harder to push in and you can hear it grind when it travels.

I sent pics to Greddy, they confirmed it was a fake.

Looking inside the genuine one, the difference in quality is huge.

See how it goes.

either fit stock back or tune the car, otherwise you will always get pigeon sound whatever you use which brand BOV/soft spring

also if you can develop some electric solenoid valve controlled BOV like modern VW/Audi/BMW/Benz, you can also get rid of the pigeon sound

Edited by YangLIU

My suggestion, block the kent off and see what the response is like. It is a good way to see what the boost is actually doing too. Do you have a good boost gauge? The only time I have seen shuddering is when the car is running over 20psi untuned.

Mutt,

The Nissan adapter faces the return either up or down.

Meaning I'll need an elbow off the bov, down hits the engine, up bonnet won't close.

Haven't dry fitted yet but it doesn't look good.

I'll have to make my own adapter I think like this one.

post-25026-0-14323300-1450944966_thumb.jpg

post-25026-0-72403700-1450947862_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772

I just fitted a stock M35 BOV into a 33gtst, bolts straight in, so I have no idea what's going on there...

The only car I have seen where I couldn't get rid of the juddering was actually running 21psi due to having a 1 bar actuator and still running the stock bleed circuit. What boost does it run on a big uphill stomp? If it's too much that will be your answer. the stock ecu is in protection mode and dumping fuel.

It mostly shudders when I back off at 3-5 psi

Here's the adapter I have.

It puts the vent up or down, not to the side where it needs to be.

Nengun sell one for the RB25DET with all the holes in line.

post-25026-0-23377400-1451023974_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772

Yeah that is defiantly the wrong adapter plat you just need one where all the blots holes are in a strait line. Best look at your bov and where the bolt holes are and do some research into a suitable adapter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's when. I guess you could say I'm as patient as I am foolish(or just a masochist?🤔). I've strongly considered throwing in the towel and calling it all quits many times, and have almost done so. It's a first-world problem for sure, but I've had a pretty rough go of it, as well as other factors; hoping something good comes of all this; it has to. It definitely is half the price of the ATS and performs great, but I'd like to try something different for once. I've sampled the ATS in a friend's 32 and it's solid👍
    • I know mentally you're set on the ATS clutch but honestly I'm a big fan of the Nismo Super Coppermix Twin. It's much cheaper and in some ways I think it's a better design for a street/circuit car.
    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
×
×
  • Create New...