Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the farting bov 2 days ago (Still in SA , bout to head back to WA on Saturday) , the noise and vibration this thing made I thought I had broken something bigger.

After stripping out everything intake related bar turbo and not finding anything bad I read up on the threads here , and yep 3000-4000 rpm feathering throttle there is a urrhghhhh noise and vibration. Luckily my brother had several R32/33/34 parts in them had two r33 bovs.

Cleaned up one and fitted, vac line is a little skew wiff but otherwise bolted up (same part number printed on the body) no more shudder and farting/vibration, did everything I could to replicate.

Pheew !

BOV looks genuine.

Didn't know it was going to be a bitch to fit with bolts clashing and clearances.

I don't see it a waste of time as I enjoy tinkering.

Especially if it works better than the Turbosmart.

Refer to Lakes comment below; the "choo choo" noise you're hearing is the compressor stalling; which is a sure sign that the BOV isn't opening.

Well has it worked better than the turbosmart!!??? Didn't sound like it! If your getting more chocho it didn't sound like it's working at all. May as well blanked it off lol

Just buy the turbosmart 7psi Spring out it in throw that knock off one in the bin and call it a day!

This; so much this.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191727753547?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Yep I have the soft spring for the Turbosmart- still shudders but not as violently as the standard one, and have variation in spool.

I took the Greddy off today and resealed the flanges.

Also took the top hat off the BOV and discovered two springs inside the top chamber- one standard and one soft.

You can take either out, so took out the big one.

Now the valve pushes in very easily under vacuum and I have heaps of adjustment on the top screw.

There's no incremental adjustment on the Turbosmart.

I'll test it tomorrow.

Here's a pic of the big arse spring and also the notched flange with some of my finest work in machining.

post-25026-0-67117600-1452154688_thumb.jpg

post-25026-0-57127800-1452154737_thumb.jpg

^ not taking the piss or anything but was that an error in not reading the instructions or is it something that just wasn't explained well in it? I'm not sure if I'm thinking of the same unit but does this have the two valves? The small one which pulls at light pressure and the big one that pushes at full pressure? It should have that adjustment nut at the top..

As for the turbosmart... Doesn't the screw at the top wind out and you back the nut down to keep it in place? I did that and added a little rubber of ring to stop any minor leakage as a peace of mind..

WHOOO HOOOOO. NO PIGEONS AND NO SHUDDER AT ALL.

SPOOLS UP TO 1 BAR NICELY, MAYBE A TAD OF LAG, BACK OFF THE GAS : PRESSURE GAUGE DROPS TO -1 BAR AN INSTANT AND SILENTLY

NO MORE ECU HESITATION AND DUMPING FUEL EITHER.

WELL WORTH THE EFFORT

THIS BOV COMES WITH BOTH SPRINGS INSIDE.

THE SOFT ONE WAS SITTING INSIDE THE BIG ONE DOING NOTHING.

IT'S SMALLER IN DIAMETER AND SHORTER.

PULL THE BIG ONE OUT AND PUT THE PLUNGER BACK ON TOP, DONE.

I HAVE THE SOFT SPRING ON THE SOFTEST SETTING ATM.

VALVE RESISTANCE MAYBE A LITTLE TOO SOFT.

THERES ABOUT 25MM THREAD FOR ADJUSTMENT TO COMPRESS THE SPRING IF YOU NEED IT.

BUT I'M STILL RUNNING STOCK ECU SO WILL LEAVE IT FOR NOW AS TS CONTROLLING BOOST SPIKE NICELY.

SUPER SMOOTH TO DRIVE.

THE RANGE FOR ADJUSTMENT ON THIS BOV IN ENORMOUS..

JUST NEED SOMEONE TO MAKE AN ADAPTER/FLANGE THAT CLEARS THE COLLAR ON THE INTAKE.

I USED GASKET SEALANT TO FIX THE BOOST LEAK.

I have the second one which still hits, plus that's the perpendicular adapter which places the vent up or down only.

There is no room for elbows so won't work.

The other might but looking at it, assuming the hole is 30mm, there's only 5mm or so off the hole to where it hits the intake.

So that will need shaving too.

Edited by conan7772

Sorted out lag issue.

Boost-t was bleeding too much as it was at minimum setting (3psi).

I replaced the vacuum hose to it as the old one split.

The stock one had 1mm restrictor in it, so now the controller bleeds way more with the 4mm vac line.

Tightened up the BOV a tad and increased the boost-t a bit.

Found the sweet spot.

  • 1 month later...

So data logging has revealed that my BOV shudder at part throttle is actually a fuel cut. Obviously TPS vs Load limits being exceeded.

i also have this problem if i set more aggressive of my EBC. anyway, i booked with DVS for tuning at middle of this month. will sort all fuel cut issue :yes:

Edited by YangLIU

My car is night and day difference from the Turbosmart to the Greddy FV.

Before I had black smoke on shudder/ decel and was going through way more fuel.

The ECU seemed confused the way it dumped fuel and hesitated.

Now the car is super smooth off throttle and much more economical.

I can't make it shudder no matter how hard I try.

The FV BOV opens and closes way more than then the Turbosmart.

I've tuned it to around 17-18 psi, not hitting boost cut, spools up to that around 4k rpm

Are you sure your fuel cut issues aren't stemming from pulses of air , causing erratic data..

I'm convinced a standard design BOV with a stiffer spring than stock creates an unstable flow within the intake and plenum.

The Turbosmart BOV ( both springs, standard and soft )is chattering on decel causing pulses of air.

The M35 intake needs more recirculation off throttle.

I'd say the FV BOV will open slightly on decel even driving off boost.

I have to say I'm surprised no one else has tried the floating valve design.

I'm happy my plugs and cat aren't being clogged to the shithouse with carbon anymore, never mind the shuddering and long time wear on the transmission and extra fuel costs.

The Turbosmart BOV ( both springs, standard and soft )is chattering on decel causing pulses of air.

The M35 intake needs more recirculation off throttle.

My Turbosmart is fine.

Sounds like you are trying to tune the car with the BOV. :P

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...