R34 Gtr Front Lower Control Arm Adjustable Replacement Options. (r33 Gtr Parts Swap?)

[GTRNUR]

Im looking for a bettter option to obtain more accurate caster adjustment than using offset bushes in the alloy front lower control arms on an R34 GTR.

Has anyone tried fitting an R33 GTR lower control arm, with an adjustable castor/tension rod to an R34?

It seems the only other option is using Ikeya arms which are not only expensive but also clearly a modificaiton that will attract police attention if the car is ever inspected.

[GTSBoy]

Is not every 34 suspension arm the same as 33?

[GTRNUR]

No the lower front control arm on the R34's are a cast alloy item and are not adjustable.

The R33 arms are a 2 piece part, with a control arm that anchors the hub to the K-frame, and has a tension/castor adjustment rod.

I just don't want to be the first to attempt this.. so I'm looking for some info from someone that has already done it.

It seems that the Nismo Circuit Link system uses what appears to be an R33 control arm, but I cant find any information to confirm if the part is the same.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lb/pdf/bnr34_1.pdf

[GTRNUR]

R34 lower control arm.

R33 Lower control arm (minus caster rod)

[GTRNUR]

So it only took 4 days or research but I have found the answer in the form of a Nismo upgrade part that is both R33 and R34 GTR compatible.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-circuit-link-set-skyline-bcnr33-bnr34-wgnc34.html

$330 for a left or right side box setup of R33 GTR control arms that have a little more welding done on them, then painted silver and a Nismo sticker is added.

From RHD Japan:

The NISMO Circuit Link Set Skyline BCNR33 BNR34 WGNC34 includes the front upper link and the front transverse link. Circuit Link Sets are sold separately as a left side set or a right side set. The items are more rigid than the OEM units and are a great upgrade when fine tuning the suspension of your vehicle. The Circuit Link Set proves to be most useful when used for circuit racing to improve cornering and reduce the understeering characteristics of your vehicle. This is done by the change in suspension geometry (high caster and negative camber). Please remember that these sets are sold separately by sides. If a full set is needed please add two (2) to your shopping cart and specify. If only a certain side is needed, please add one (1) to your shopping cart and specify which side. For a quick overview, please click View All Pictures, see the bottom images. This item is numbered 1 on the first picture, the Skyline GT-R R33. Please Note, this part may be numbered differently on your model, please refer to pictures. Nismo is the best for anything Nissan and is the top choice of all major Nissan tuners out there! Upon purchasing please state the car from the compatibility list that you would like to have the NISMO Circuit Link Set for. Get this and all your JDM at RHDJapan!!

So my solution is going to be to get 2 R33 GTR Control arms, 2 x Hardrace R33 Caster rods, and adjustable upper control arms. All with rubber bushes so it will be a nice and streetable setup with a high degree of adjustment. The addition of roll center spacer adjusters will complete the setup. Complete setup is costing $600.

[djr81]

Don't know how directly this applies to you but I have the equivalent arm from Nismo in an R32 GTR part. The only difference between the Nismo and the Nissan part (other than the colour) is the outside bolt hole (on the left of the first photo) is drilled offset on the Nismo item and centred on the Nissan one. This gives you a few mm longer affective arm length for some more camber and trackwidth. If you care not for those things just go buy a stock Nissan set which second hand I imagine you would get change out of $50.

[GTRNUR]

Yes thanks, I figured they just drilled them a little different. From all the pictures I've seen it is the same casting. Ironic that the nismo upgrade part for the BNR34 is to switch back to what is basically the BNR33 part...

[djr81]

Most Nismo upgrade parts (the suspension links etc) are just stock items with harder bushes or with slightly different lengths or drill locations. To the extent that I wouldn't bother with most of it. I only bought the stuff because I could not find the dimensional information I was after. Still have the castor rods sitting at home. I did like these more, however and will have to chase them up at some stage...

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-r32-adjustable-tension-rods-p-8629.html

[milanr34]

Nice write up djr81.

Mine has aftermarket suspension, rims and is lowered - after doing an alignment they said its still a tad bit out but nothing major. Seeing as it only gets driven on weekends its not a big deal.

But wanting to get perfect wheel alignment would you need to change upper and lower control arms? If so then there is the pain of if they are legal or not.

Did you end up getting the alignment you were after?

[GTRNUR]

Update.

I've had some time to get stuck into the car again lately. I put in the R33 GTR lower control arms and hard race castor rods. Also had to replace a LH inner CV boot which I took care of yesterday.

Just waiting on camber bushes so I can replace the outer upper control arm bushes with superpro bushes and an eccentric offset pin.

I suspect I'll have to look at getting some roll centre adjusters as well, and possibly some different tie rod ends to eliminate bump steer.

[Htowngodzilla]

sound like good idea i want to change my lower arm on r34 gtr since its bend now.

so should I convert to r33 lower control arm and adjustable tension

[GTRNUR]

The main reason I wanted adjustability was because I have altered my K frame height.

This combined with having lowered the vehicle meant that the role centre of the car was thrown out the window.

Unless you have RB30 conversion and have spacer induced handling issues, and really want to correct it properly, I would recommend you replace your standard ones instead.

My final set up uses r33 Control arms, with adjustable castor rods, and 30 mm of roll centre adjustment achieve by custom laser cut spacers that I made.

I am probably going to go in for another wheel alignment in a month or two, raise the car 10 mm and remove 10 mm of roll Centre adjustment. Only because the car is difficult to get in and out of driveways.

Other than that the car handles great. It's not nervous at all at any speed.

[Htowngodzilla]

The main reason I wanted adjustability was because I have altered my K frame height.

This combined with having lowered the vehicle meant that the role centre of the car was thrown out the window.

Unless you have RB30 conversion and have spacer induced handling issues, and really want to correct it properly, I would recommend you replace your standard ones instead.

My final set up uses r33 Control arms, with adjustable castor rods, and 30 mm of roll centre adjustment achieve by custom laser cut spacers that I made.

I am probably going to go in for another wheel alignment in a month or two, raise the car 10 mm and remove 10 mm of roll Centre adjustment. Only because the car is difficult to get in and out of driveways.

Other than that the car handles great. It's not nervous at all at any speed.

GTRNUR, I have a problem with my alignment the front wheel is about 1.5 inch to front looks close to the front bumper. but you think this solution well cure my problem?

Thanks