Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I’m looking for some advice.

I have a 1994 R32 GT-R V-Spec II and would like to upgrade my dumps and turbos (and hopefully gain a bit more power) but seek your advice on best brand/model combinations..........

I wanted a car that was visually as close to stock as possible (even sourced and fitted a new period correct Eurovox AM/FM radio) but returns the most amount of power without compromising driveability.

The current specs of my car are as follows:

• 3.25” HKS Performance Exhaust
• 3” High Flow Catalytic Converter
• Niztune
• Nismo MAFS
• Splitfire Coils
• HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller - Set at max (22 psi) and hidden behind the ashtray.
• Sard 720cc Injectors
• Walbro Fuel Pump (size not known)
• Excedy Heavy Duty Clutch Inc diaphragm, friction plate and throwout bearing. Flywheel machined to suite.

FWIW....... It also has Bilstein front and rear Strut/Shock set up with King Springs and Whiteline upgraded front and rear sway bars.

It was Dynoed at 285rwkw at Croydon Motorsports and 272rwkw at Unigroup Engineering, make of those figures as you will.

Same set up, similar conditions.

It has standard dump pipes and factory original ceramic turbos.

It’s obvious that the STD Turbos are running pretty much to capacity so I’m looking at upgrading both the dumps and Turbos.
I was thinking of TOMEI dumps, open to model/part number recommendations and a pair of Garrett GT2860R-7 Turbos. (R34 GT-R N1 Style).
The car feels like a factory STD car with a healthy amount of performance.

The car will only used for occasional spirited weekend drives.

What dump/turbos combination would you recommend other than what I've already suggested and is there anything else I should look at to enhance the performance without losing drivability.

I’m not keen on changing the cam so would adjustable cam gears serve any merit for more bottom end performance?

Should I change any of the parts already fitted?

I appreciate your input......

Cheers,

Bob.

post-78207-0-00448300-1444502133_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-54447600-1444502152_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-15656800-1444502171_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-09126200-1444502197_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-50576800-1444502214_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-07821700-1444502244_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-54525100-1444502261_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-17788800-1444502278_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460293-help-in-upgrading-dumps-and-turbos/
Share on other sites

My thoughts based on my cars previous setup.

  • Open style dumps (Tomei, Mines, R34 etc)
  • Matching front pipes, preferably equal length
  • Adjustable cam gears (I saw very good low/mid end gains getting this right)

-7s if you're happy with the setup you have but just want to push the a little bit harder.

-9s if you want to keep similar response to stock, but would like to seem more power (~50hp) over the -7s

On -5s it's very worthwhile opening up the exhaust manifolds while turbos are off.
I'd be interested if people think it's worthwhile on -7s/-9s also, or whether it is seen to negatively impact these smaller turbos?

you like your motor?

turn the boost down on those turbos before they kamakazi themselves

Yep........ Thanks for the advice and hence why I made the original post.

I very rarely take it past 4000RPM so it hardly goes past half its maximum.

The front pipes are part of the HKS 3.25" system so I'm happy to stay with them.

How do these look as upgrades?

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/tomei-cam-gear-set-intake-exhaust-tomei-152009-152010-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts-gts25-gts4-gtst-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-p-854.html

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/tomei-turbocharger-dump-pipe-set-68mm-275-tomei-expreme-421201-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-stagea-wgnc34-260rs-rb26dett-p-601.html

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/garrett-garrett-gt2860r7-r34-turbocharger-set-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-rb26dett-p-307.html

Cheers,

Bob.

Hpi dumps are way better.

But you would know that because all of this is extensively covered and a gazillion threads.

Yes of course........ Silly me!

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/hpi-turbocharger-dump-pipe-kit-hpi-hp2tobnr32-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-vspec-vspec-rb26dett-p-1211.html

For what you want, -7s or 9s and open dumps with cam gears and a tune will be perfect,

Cam gears are worth every cent (even with the factory cams)

My new exhaust is being fitted and the tune touched up soon which will basically make it what your car will be and you're welcome to take it for a drive to make sure it's what you want

Thanks Brett, I appreciate your reply and offer.

I know the Unigroup Dyno is the most modest of the higher profile tuners so if I can get to the magical 300rwkw on their dyno I'd be thrilled.

That requires a 10% increase primarily from the dumps.....

Not sure if that is realistic but my primary objective is to have a safe tune and no blow the whole thing up.

Cheers and thanks again......

Bob.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
×
×
  • Create New...