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So I finally found a blue tooth adapter that will work with NDS111 on my V36 skyline Great!! now I can find my problem, so I thought, no error codes.

I have a weird noise I've bee trying to diagnose for about 2 months now. It's a clicking/ticking noise at low speed very light throttle and only lasts 1-2 seconds. Does anyo9ne know what this could be? It sounds like lifter ticking but it happens intermittently when the car is warm. There are no error codes so I have to assume its not detonation as there is no det error code. My thoughts at the moment are o2 sensors. I tried to check out the o2 sensors on NDS111. I know on my 300zx you basically rev the car to 2000 then watch the values fly about all over the place incicaing the car is adjusting the values. However on the NDS111 I'm not sure what readout is for the o2 sensors. I think it might be these, NB Sns2 b1 (something sensor 2 bank 1), NB Sns2 b2 (something sensor 2 bank 2), WB Sns b1 (something sensor bank 1), WB Sns b2 (something sensor bank 2) Are these the 4 oxygen sensors? If they are two of them are reading all over the place and the other two sensors are sitting at about 0.3. I'll do a screen shot soon.

Can anyone send me a link or document for all the base settings for example, what is the TPS setting closed throttle what are all the other setting I should be seeing.

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WB is the wideband or AFR sensor, these are used by the ECU to adjust short term fuel mix, there is one for each bank.

The NB are narrow band sensors and are generally only used to confirm the cats are working, they aren't used for tuning at all, but they will throw a CEL if they detect issues with the cat function.

you should see them all fluctuate as you give some throttle input.

Edited by sonicii
  On 11/10/2015 at 6:54 AM, sonicii said:

WB is the wideband or AFR sensor, these are used by the ECU to adjust short term fuel mix, there is one for each bank.

The NB are narrow band sensors and are generally only used to confirm the cats are working, they aren't used for tuning at all, but they will throw a CEL if they detect issues with the cat function.

you should see them all fluctuate as you give some throttle input.

So I get good fluctuation on the WB and no movement on the NB. The NB sits at about 0.27/0.26 at idle. No change when revving. Took it for a drive and when I got back at some point the NB had changed to about 0.1/0.12.

Are my NB sensors playing up they don't fluctuate, we no where near the amount the WD fluctuates?

12072535_10154747352412524_2759610184115

Edited by 30ONA

something seems a bit out. they probably won't do anything when they are cold, but once up to working temp, a normal NB O2 sensor should rapidly change from 0V to 1V as O2 is measured in the exhaust gas. To sit at a constant 0.27V is not normal.

When you release the throttle from high RPM, the injectors shut off completely until the engine returns to about idle speed, so there is heaps on O2 in the exhaust during this time and you should see the WB figures hit about 3+ and the NB figures approach 1.0.

That said, if the NB sensors are faulty, you should be seeing a CEL and codes stored in the ECU. I am wondering if NDS3 isn't correctly reading this data, thus the unusual figures and no CEL.

I've graphed a log file of me driving round local streets.

The WB sensors seem to nearly match each other all the time.

The NB sensors seem to match most of the time but there are periods where there is 0.6volts difference between one bank and the other.

I'm really puzzled as to what is causing this 'pinging', and I don;t have the understanding to asses the data. Can someone help? Can ?I send someone a log file?

Or do I take it to a dyno?

Putting a name to the noise like pinging will lead everyone down the garden path I suspect.

What engine is in the car?

What fuel do you run?

What grade of oil is in the engine?

Have you tried disconnecting the cam solenoids to see if it's them causing the noise?

Does this ticking sound only happen about 1 min give or take after startup whether the engine is hot or cold? Eg if its ticking and you shut it off for a few seconds and start up again does it take another minute to start ticking again?

BTW please let us know exactly which Bluetooth dongle from jaycar that would be awesome

Not sure if v36 have a canister purge solenoid, but had one of these go on my VE. Started out intermittent but got more persistent over time.

Easiest way to test is simply unplugging the power to it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SHwqGKj2njw

http://www.samarins.com/glossary/purge-valve.html

Sorry for no reply about the Bluetooth. Yes I have the same one.

  On 17/10/2015 at 12:42 AM, Rufus007 said:

Woohoo picked up one of these bluetooth OBDII from Jaycar and it works great

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Automotive-%26-Mobile-Security/Car-Alarms,-Protection-%26-Accessories/Tracking-Fleet-Monitoring/READER-OBD2-BLUETOOTH-4-0-ENGINE-CODE/p/PP2145

It's branded 'response', part number PP-2145

Well for anyone following two things have come from this noise.

1. The noise was from resonance and a rattle caused by a worn top radiator rubber mount. :glare:

2. Analysing all the data to try and find the noise I found out I have a veeerrry lazy narrow band sensor on one side.

0001%201_zpsv4v1fljm.jpg

  On 17/10/2015 at 11:47 AM, 30ONA said:

Well for anyone following two things have come from this noise.

1. The noise was from resonance and a rattle caused by a worn top radiator rubber mount. :glare:

Hah! Got to love the simplest of things. Much like a loose heat shield problem a friend of mine had with his car - sounded like it was pinging at a certain load.

  On 17/10/2015 at 11:47 AM, 30ONA said:

2. Analysing all the data to try and find the noise I found out I have a veeerrry lazy narrow band sensor on one side.

I would agree.. B1 looks normal, B2 looks like it has issues..

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