Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

As the title states..

I got a set of LMGT4's a few weeks ago fitted to my 34 with new tyres. I decided the other day I wasn't bothered to wash the car so I took it to my local car wash I've been going to for years. Unfortunately one of there new washers decided he liked my rims so much he wanted to degrease my wheels and brakes whilst washing the car. Yesterday I noticed the streak marks and realised whatever degreaser they used has stuffed the paint of my rims.

I took it back straight away and they were most apologetic and offered to pay $300 for re painting and offered me a full detail inc a buffing polish and shampoo and steam clean of my seats and carpet to apologise! I am not going to name and shame them as they felt really really bad.

Now I need to get them repainted - preferably in the same bronze colour too! I've thought about painting them black as my old wheels were d1r's in black.. But this bronze has grown on me! Does anyone know and reputable wheel painters I could trust in and around Sydney? Also does anyone know the paint code for the bronze?

Below is a picture of the worst wheel so you guys can feel my pain lol

Cheers

post-137146-0-68959800-1444532538_thumb.jpeg

post-137146-0-57108400-1444532554_thumb.jpeg

Hi, Craved Coatings at Penrith paint my rims when required. Chris Thomson can match colours very well. Tyres need to be initially stripped and you'll require replacement stickers (remembering of course which spoke the sticker is applied to). Cost might be about $120/rim including sandblasting.

+1 Chris at Craved Coatings is the man for this job, I've had him coat heaps of things for me and he has always been good and reasonably priced. And he'll be able to sort the stickers too.

Thanks for the replies guys!

I never had a doubt they would throw money my way as I've brought them a lot of customers in over the years as well.

Lidz what's killing me is I bought brand new flat bronze caps which need to be painted now!

I just rang Chris and he was most helpful.. After chatting to him I think I am going to get them done in black.

Terry did he do yours in a Satin black or the Nismo black which is a metallic black with clear over the top?

Does anyone know where I will be able to get a set of genuine stickers obviously in the white font for the black rims as Chris said he can't help me there..

I just sold my old wheels last week as well.. So I'm on the hunt for some cheap stock 34 GTT wheels for I can still get around for the week whilst Chris has my lmgt4's at his shop.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...