Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking for an aftermarket oil temp sender that is compatible with the factory oil temp gauge. Ideally operating over the same range to give similar readings on the analogue gauge.

Why? I've recently pieced together the motor (rb26) deleting the factory oil cooler, filter housing, etc. replacing it with an RB20 item with aftermarket relocation/cooler kit. The factory oil pressure sender fitted into a port on the block which worked out sweet. There is however no spare metric holes for the oil temp sender. The aftermarket filter relocation and cooler kit I got has provision for a 1/8 NPT or similar sensor of some sort, therefore I'm looking for something plug and play I can hook up so I get an indication in the cabin

What have others done to address this

Thanks

Greendog

Edited by gdawg

Glad to hear its not a stupid question. I couldn't find anything in a previous thread. If someone has seen something embedded in an old thread, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE send us in the right direction.

Cheers

If it were me I'd be looking at a tee piece of the same story of fittings as the hoses are and just insert it (the Nissan one) into the connection between the new block or rb20 block and the hose.

Edited by GTSBoy

Perhaps my intention wasn't clear. I wasn't talking about using brass fittings to adapt the thread. Assuming the remote hose and lines are speedflow (for example) then use a tee piece from the same range to simply extend one of the lines and put the sensor in through the side of the tee piece so it is essentially

in line.

Issue is that the factory temp sensor is a m10 thread whereas the aftermarket one you have there is 1/8npt. People sell adaptors that go from not to m10 male, but ones that do m10 female are much rarer

Hence my suggestion. Oil temp sensor has to be IN the flow (unlike the pressure sensor which can be in a setup like Cal's above which probably wouldn't actually have oil in it!).

Think about it. The oil lines to the cooler/filter/whatever is remote mounted are like 1/2" or larger. So it would be trivial to arrange for an M10 male threaded sensor to go in through the side of a tee piece, with the oil flowing along the straight side of the T.

Haha wow, I forgot we were talking oil temp sensor here.......... Yeah what I have posted wont work well at all for that

If I was doing that I would be running it on my oil cooler lines anyway. I was going to suggest a male to female coupler with a port in it for a gauge sensor, but it appears M10 threaded ones are very rare. you could always drill and tap it out if you were desperate. The couplers arent made of titanium. The only issue I see is there being enough meat in some fittings to do so, as below not sure if it will work

1_430512_400_400.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...