Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya guys,

Does anyone know exactly what the ratios are for adjusting the C.A.S?

(As in 1mm movement of C.A.S = how many degrees difference at crank)

I know rotating the C.A.S clockwise retards timing, whilst anti-clockwise will advance it.. Also the slots on the C.A.S are exactly 20mm wide..

I also know that the factory position for the C.A.S is centered to achieve 15 degrees..

But if I move the C.A.S 1 mm how many degrees does that change? On HKS timing gears, its 2 degrees at the crank per mm, would that be relative?

Cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460393-cas-adjustment-question/
Share on other sites

I also know that the factory position for the C.A.S is centered to achieve 15 degrees..

but do you really know it though.

it is very approximate, and a timing light from supercheap is less than a slab of beer; it's a basic tool to have if you're going to touch your car.

Yeah pretty easy to calculate....

Every 1 turn of the CAS is 2 turns of the crank.

So move the CAS 1 degree is 2 degrees in crank timing or 30 seconds of CAS movement for every crank degree.

Convert your degrees to mm taking into the consideration of the outside diameter of the CAS unit using simple basic high school math......

exactly, my learned colleague.

Just get a timing light, set cas in middle. Check timing. Set it all way advanced. Check timing. Now you know how much the range of adjustments is.

You'll find once you've tried setting timing you'll throw any notion of turning the cas to the closest mm out the window, you only need to turn it a smidgin to get a change in timing, and add in a cas that's hot as f&k to touch at operating temp, won't turn because the bolts are still too tight and jumps too far cause you used too much force to turn it, then you loosen them off, and timing changes back/fwd slightly when you do them back up so timing's no longer where you had turned it to, and so on.

Use a bloody timing light. Preferably along with an on-screen display like ecutalk, consult, etc.

Haha Ive just fitted a brand new cambelt so I know timings at exactly 15 degrees.. Allgood guys was just wondering if there was any easy calc

Yeah pretty easy to calculate....

Every 1 turn of the CAS is 2 turns of the crank.

So move the CAS 1 degree is 2 degrees in crank timing or 30 seconds of CAS movement for every crank degree.

Convert your degrees to mm taking into the consideration of the outside diameter of the CAS unit using simple basic high school math......

This was pretty much what I was thinking based on the HKS adj. cams.. it was only a reference.. cheers :)

Haha Ive just fitted a brand new cambelt so I know timings at exactly 15 degrees..

Ummm....no.....its set at the stretch/tension setting of the last belt that was on.

Belts stretch, belt tension varies, head gasket thickness vary, heads can be skimmed making them sit lower, lots and lots of variables.

Even a brand new engine has its timing checked on assembly.

You have been warned by many above my posts....use a timing light.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few more recent pics
    • full send the cnut, do this   fark the wrapping and/or stick on siet. These guys are the ones to go to: https://www.realthermo.com.au/  
    • Just had a look, they don't. Fuelling on the base map is purely alpha-N, and the ignition table is MAP. Remember it's just a base map to get the car moving  
    • Hi everyone, I’m Dave from Canberra. Here's a few pics of my 1992 R32 GTST coupe which I imported back in 2006. Only mods so far are HKS Hi-power cat back exhaust, K&N filter, ATC Volanti steering wheel, Pioneer stereo, amp and sub. This was my daily driver up until 2015 and sadly hasn’t been driven at all in the last 5 years due to marriage, work, and kids taking up most of my time and spare cash.As such its in need of a bit of TLC and one of my goals for this year is to get it back to running condition and maybe look into club/historic rego. I’ve joined SAU so I can ask a few questions along the way (although I promise to google Current Problem +SAU beforehand!)
    • From talking to the mx5 guys the NC doesn't actually need bonnet vents like the earlier NA and NB models, due to a better designed cooling system and undertray design There's plenty of them used as street cars and weekend track toys running anywhere from around 170 to 250kw with stock non vented bonnets, I initially was going to get some bonnet vents, but, as they are not actually required, I'll put vents on hold for a while and just monitor temps, though I do need to get something to actually monitor engine oil temps though, coolant temp can be pulled from the OBD2, but the oil gauge in the car is not actual oil temp, it is only a calculation based off coolant temp and RPM ☹️ They do recommend upgrading the radiator, which I have already done with a triple pass, and the only other thing they recommend for a street car is heat management, like I talked about above to protect bits in the engine bay from radiant heat, and to either replace the nearly 20 year old plastic coolant expansion tank, which I have done, or get a aftermarket alloy jobbie for some bling They did also say that if I wanted to track the car on occasion a oil cooler and sump baffle would be required, and as I already have had a sump baffle installed when the engine was out......... I'm going to get a oil cooler with a thermostat....... just in case I do eventually track the car, but probably not, but still maybe...🤪
×
×
  • Create New...