Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Long story short, buying a rb25 s15 - had a full mechanical inspection done and got the following results from the comp test:

#1 – 180 psi
#2 – 170 psi
#3 – 135 psi
#4 – 145 psi
#5 – 120 psi (145 psi wet)
#6 – 180 psi

Those numbers to me feel off, i didn't even think they got compression levels so high. Naturally, the owners then freaked out and taken
it to another place where the comp test came back 140 psi across all 6 cylinders..

So now I'm chasing a 3rd compression test and will also be forking out for a leak down test as well.

So my question is 140 across the 6 an acceptable number to work with (apparently a 90k motor out of an auto stagea)? especially when I'm spending upwards of 20k on this car.

Thanks for your opinion.

140 even is fine. Remember that it is not a particularly accurate test, so good luck trying to tell the difference between a "high comp" Neo's test results and a plain R33's test results unless done on the same day by the same person with the same comp tester.

The original results are junk. You should not be able to get 170-180 on a normal 25 or Neo.

Haha had another guy saying 175-190 psi is stock on these engines.

Do you think a leak down test will give a better idea on health of the motor?

edit*

factory compression is 173.5248 psi exact apparently. I should also mention the 140 across the 6 was a dry test.

Edited by Pulseless

Walk away. Too much variation. A compression test is not rocket science so no point in doing lots of them.You will find that it drives ok with dodgy compressions but for how long?

The number is not that important - its the variation between them that is a worry.

Yes a leak down test if done by a competent operator should tell you if the valves or rings are leaking. Again a variation below 5% is desirable.

Yep I got 170psi exactly on all 6 on a genuine low k RB25 neo. 10-15psi variation depending how anal you are.

Personally I'd be happy even with 20psi variation and just turn up the boost and put things in place to aid the inevitable blow by issue.

  • 3 months later...

I got a comp test done recently on my RB25DET Neo ('98, about 150k on it) just out of curiosity, here's the results:

#1 - 165

#2 - 150

#3 - 160

#4 - 150

#5 - 155

#6 - 155

It's within the 10% variation, just. Anything to be concerned about, should I get a leak down done?

Car is running fine, just with an intermittent miss, same as it's always had...

(EDIT: Not sure if above figures are hot/cold/dry/wet, will check)

Edited by V28VX37

I got a comp test done recently on my RB25DET Neo ('98, about 150k on it) just out of curiosity, here's the results:

#1 - 165

#2 - 150

#3 - 160

#4 - 150

#5 - 155

#6 - 155

It's within the 10% variation, just. Anything to be concerned about, should I get a leak down done?

Car is running fine, just with an intermittent miss, same as it's always had...

(EDIT: Not sure if above figures are hot/cold/dry/wet, will check)

I'd be pretty happy with that for an 18yr old engine.

Quote for truth. Plz take this advice.

I bought my shit box, didn't bother to do a comp test because I was too lazy and it was cold lol (had the gauge and socket set on me too) and still haven't done one 3 years later.

Also not to mention I screw in more boost than 90% of owners and thrash the shit out of it on the track.

Once it does grenade, I'll just throw in a 2nd hand motor and do the same thing.

Moral of the story, thrash it till it blows up. Leak down test or compression tests are pointless once you've already bought the car IMHO.

I'd be pretty happy with that for an 18yr old engine.

Car is 20 years old man, if it runs then be happy with that, then pop in new ARP studs and screw in tons of boost, bake tyres and smile

Quote for truth. Plz take this advice.

My neo has has 100 to 120 flat.for 3 years with 300 plus kw no blow bye or issues

Thanks guys, great response! And yes it's been running 275rwkw @ 20psi on 98 so almost double the stock power for quite a while now, gotta be happy with that ;)

how I see it (feel free to ignore)...

These cars are shit boxes that are fast, handle well and cost more than they should... they're no Ferrari or no 2015 GT-R, so worrying about a few psi across a 20 year old motor is pointless.

It's like a Commodore VN owner doing a compression test on their 25 year old lump of shit and whinging about a 20psi difference between the boat anchor.

  • Like 1

Those Buicks can be epic motors!

They can be, viz the Formula Holden stuff. But in original VN series 1 form they are a horrible, nasty, shuddering cheese grater of an engine, saved from being a completely useless turd by having stacks of torque at the bottom end.

  • Like 1

They can be, viz the Formula Holden stuff. But in original VN series 1 form they are a horrible, nasty, shuddering cheese grater of an engine, saved from being a completely useless turd by having stacks of torque at the bottom end.

I had one, shameless admission

in 2 years I had it, it went through like 4 power steering pumps, 2 alternators, 1 crank sensor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno man, that VX S with 200,000 k's is still hanging out for 1.5 I reckon the R34 is the better buy, personally.
    • Dang, doesn't even include on roads.
    • Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.
    • Jousting sticks! Tell 'im he's dreamin!
    • GTR owners are wankers - 2025
×
×
  • Create New...