Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Long story short, buying a rb25 s15 - had a full mechanical inspection done and got the following results from the comp test:

#1 – 180 psi
#2 – 170 psi
#3 – 135 psi
#4 – 145 psi
#5 – 120 psi (145 psi wet)
#6 – 180 psi

Those numbers to me feel off, i didn't even think they got compression levels so high. Naturally, the owners then freaked out and taken
it to another place where the comp test came back 140 psi across all 6 cylinders..

So now I'm chasing a 3rd compression test and will also be forking out for a leak down test as well.

So my question is 140 across the 6 an acceptable number to work with (apparently a 90k motor out of an auto stagea)? especially when I'm spending upwards of 20k on this car.

Thanks for your opinion.

140 even is fine. Remember that it is not a particularly accurate test, so good luck trying to tell the difference between a "high comp" Neo's test results and a plain R33's test results unless done on the same day by the same person with the same comp tester.

The original results are junk. You should not be able to get 170-180 on a normal 25 or Neo.

Haha had another guy saying 175-190 psi is stock on these engines.

Do you think a leak down test will give a better idea on health of the motor?

edit*

factory compression is 173.5248 psi exact apparently. I should also mention the 140 across the 6 was a dry test.

Edited by Pulseless

Walk away. Too much variation. A compression test is not rocket science so no point in doing lots of them.You will find that it drives ok with dodgy compressions but for how long?

The number is not that important - its the variation between them that is a worry.

Yes a leak down test if done by a competent operator should tell you if the valves or rings are leaking. Again a variation below 5% is desirable.

Yep I got 170psi exactly on all 6 on a genuine low k RB25 neo. 10-15psi variation depending how anal you are.

Personally I'd be happy even with 20psi variation and just turn up the boost and put things in place to aid the inevitable blow by issue.

  • 3 months later...

I got a comp test done recently on my RB25DET Neo ('98, about 150k on it) just out of curiosity, here's the results:

#1 - 165

#2 - 150

#3 - 160

#4 - 150

#5 - 155

#6 - 155

It's within the 10% variation, just. Anything to be concerned about, should I get a leak down done?

Car is running fine, just with an intermittent miss, same as it's always had...

(EDIT: Not sure if above figures are hot/cold/dry/wet, will check)

Edited by V28VX37

I got a comp test done recently on my RB25DET Neo ('98, about 150k on it) just out of curiosity, here's the results:

#1 - 165

#2 - 150

#3 - 160

#4 - 150

#5 - 155

#6 - 155

It's within the 10% variation, just. Anything to be concerned about, should I get a leak down done?

Car is running fine, just with an intermittent miss, same as it's always had...

(EDIT: Not sure if above figures are hot/cold/dry/wet, will check)

I'd be pretty happy with that for an 18yr old engine.

Quote for truth. Plz take this advice.

I bought my shit box, didn't bother to do a comp test because I was too lazy and it was cold lol (had the gauge and socket set on me too) and still haven't done one 3 years later.

Also not to mention I screw in more boost than 90% of owners and thrash the shit out of it on the track.

Once it does grenade, I'll just throw in a 2nd hand motor and do the same thing.

Moral of the story, thrash it till it blows up. Leak down test or compression tests are pointless once you've already bought the car IMHO.

I'd be pretty happy with that for an 18yr old engine.

Car is 20 years old man, if it runs then be happy with that, then pop in new ARP studs and screw in tons of boost, bake tyres and smile

Quote for truth. Plz take this advice.

My neo has has 100 to 120 flat.for 3 years with 300 plus kw no blow bye or issues

Thanks guys, great response! And yes it's been running 275rwkw @ 20psi on 98 so almost double the stock power for quite a while now, gotta be happy with that ;)

how I see it (feel free to ignore)...

These cars are shit boxes that are fast, handle well and cost more than they should... they're no Ferrari or no 2015 GT-R, so worrying about a few psi across a 20 year old motor is pointless.

It's like a Commodore VN owner doing a compression test on their 25 year old lump of shit and whinging about a 20psi difference between the boat anchor.

  • Like 1

Those Buicks can be epic motors!

They can be, viz the Formula Holden stuff. But in original VN series 1 form they are a horrible, nasty, shuddering cheese grater of an engine, saved from being a completely useless turd by having stacks of torque at the bottom end.

  • Like 1

They can be, viz the Formula Holden stuff. But in original VN series 1 form they are a horrible, nasty, shuddering cheese grater of an engine, saved from being a completely useless turd by having stacks of torque at the bottom end.

I had one, shameless admission

in 2 years I had it, it went through like 4 power steering pumps, 2 alternators, 1 crank sensor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
    • haha funny enough I did ask him wtf he had been up to with the electrics....but no answer
    • For a daily just run Akebono ceramic pads. That's what they're optimized for. Obviously don't try to run it on track or anything like that.
    • Hey all, I'm sorry if this has been discussed before.  I have a 2008 Japanese import V36 coupe with nav but without Bose. I bought one of those AliExpress android screens, which for the most part works really well.  The only thing that doesn't work is the air con controls (well sort of) and the factory reverse camera.  The AC can be controlled fine but it doesn't report the change in temp and mode to the screen, and the volume knob/other audio controls from the panel don't register on the learning app.  I am pretty certain that the problem is the difference in the head unit between base model (Nav but no Bose) 2007-2009 coupes and anything after 2009.  Mine is the one with the blue connector all the way to the right as seen in this forum post:  The reason I think this is there is one wire left over that doesn't fit anywhere on this head unit, or in the factory screen which also uses different connectors to more recent versions.  I've seen the upgrade from OWC, and have sent the guy a message on eBay but no response yet.  I also don't particularly need the whole kit, just *maybe* an adapter for this one cable.  Did anyone else here have the same problem, or have any insight about what I can do to get this working?  I have been in contact with the seller but all they seem to be able to do is ask for more pictures and videos. Minor edit to add:  I have been researching and found a screen on Aliexpress that actually specifies my head unit in the listing, so these things do exist.  I will contact the seller to see if the wiring adapters are interchangeable with other screens.   Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...