Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So sick of these skylines and there shitty coilpacks. Yesterday i did a full service, basically changed the spark plugs, oil and oil filter. But when i was test driving the car, you could hear it misfiring. The cylinder seems like its still running, its just not getting a 100% proper connection. Basically you can hear the exhaust pop during idle, and as your taking off it slightly misses and when you flat out give it, it chugs back every 1000rpm or so. I checked the coilpack loom connections and made sure they were all plugged in...so does it seems like its one coilpack thats basically failed? its a f**king rb25 neo n/a so to unplug coilpack 2,3 and 4 you need to take off the god damn plenum extension and a few lines on top of it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460562-another-coilpack-issue/
Share on other sites

Depends on the people that own the car before you to. My Skyline was imported by a family member who lives in Japan and it has genuine low mileage, and completely stock, the only issues I've had are headlight switch and the window switch. Not bad for a car 1/4 of a century old!

When you changed your plugs did you adjust the gap correctly and use the right plugs?

Did you check the coil packs for arcing and tape them up if you saw some?

Did you use dielectric grease around the boots before you put the coils in?

Is the coil pack loom OK?

Im just gonna change all the coilpacks and loom because they are all pretty worn out and damaged the coilpacks already have tape on them and some of the inlets on the plugs are broken. Do you think its still ok to drive the car for a few days? it wont damage the engine or anything like that?

no it wont hurt it too much if it's only missing

ok cool thanks. Like i said it misses every 2-3 seconds on idle and when you plant your foot down but doesnt miss when you are cruising it. Also, i really dont want to pay that much for yellow jackets, if i had a gtr then i would be more than happy to but its just a n/a so ill get stock coilpacks

Edited by IM-32-FK

Guys i need your help. I changed the coilpacks and loom and it still didnt fix the issue so it must be spark plug issue. But ive always used the same spark plugs - ngk bcpr7es -11 . I know its a bit over the top but it always ran good with them. Im left with no choice but to gap them to 0.8. So you think this will fix the issue? It took me like 4 hours and alot of sweat and blood to pull everything apart and put it back together so im pretty pissed off. I didn't even go work today to do it so i lost out on alot of money anyway. Please tell me this will fix the issue otherwise i got no idea what it would be. I also used 10-40 penrite fully synthetic pro racing esther.

If i gap them to 0.8 and it still doesnt fix the issue, then what else could it be? This shit is giving me anxiety i want my car running properly otherwise its always in the back of my mind

Thanks

Edited by IM-32-FK

Told you to gap them down

I wish i listened to you man... Ive already wasted 7 hours total so far on this shit. I feel so bad now i gotta buy the gapping tool tomorrow after work and see what happens. I hope it fixes the issue otherwise im gonna burn my car down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The NZ wiring kit is a 1/3 the price and will be perfectly fine for your application, I've ran one for 6+ years and many others have. Comes as a full plug into factory connector and the settings for a Link. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Always comes back to the tuners knowledge and experience with a tuning platform. It takes years to become proficient and learning all aspects and capabilities. I've been using Links for 16 years now (rb and sr paltforms) and always learning something new with adding tables, diagnostics and data logging. Stay 98 for the usability and keep it simple so you can enjoy the car more. With experience I'll give you a current example of the industry I am in. They use Motec m190 and only use VE tuning when they have a torque mapping available and would solve the "PARITY" issues that plagues the category all because the muppet doing the tuning doesn't understand the platform or want to learn it and the product seller have no idea on its full capabilities ( I had a good laugh as when firing up an older car that just got completed and they didn't understand the injector scaling or how to change it for different fuel being used)  
    • I'm sure there are specific hygrometers for it. But if you can just throw a high enough ranged temp sensor (theromcouple that came with your DMM, for example) into a pot of it on the BBQ, you can see when it boils.
    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
    • Yeah, that and throwing away opened, part used, closed back up bottles has got to be bullshit. Brake fluid sits in not-very-well sealed master cylinder reservoirs for literal years and keeps working (albeit we know we should flush it every couple of years - it actually still works). Anything kept in a bottle in the shed with a tightly capped lid has got to be a million times better than what has been in the car for the same length of time.
    • Wait, they're claiming UNOPENED fluid has a shelf life of only 18 months?
×
×
  • Create New...