Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically I like the idea of popping my bonnet and it looking virtually standard to the untrained eye.

I had a fairly heavily modded R32 GTS-t with an RB30 twin cam and I was able to achieve this but I'm finding the task a little more difficult with my R32 GTR.

My mods aren't by any stretch crazy..............R34 GTR N1 turbos, Nistune ECU, Z32 AFM's, 650cc injectors, walbro fuel pump etc..............

Now the issue I'm having which I'm a bit annoyed at myself didn't click earlier is trying to bolt up the Z32 AFM's to the standard airbox (sourcing this was a nightmare in itself), naturally they flow more as they are larger in diameter and therefore in turn the bolt holes don't line up, its not as simple as just redrilling the holes as one of the connection points for the AFM to the standard airbox is recessed.

Basically I'm hoping that people have gone down the same path as me (trying to make the engine bay look standard) and have a relatively easy fix for me (adaptor perhaps?!)

Cheers in advance.

Best option.

Sell z32's

Sell ecu

Get map like link or motech and don't worry about blowing a vac hose and be stranded to get raped by predators in the wild suburban streets.

Keep factory air box without hacking it up.

  • Like 2

The cleverest solution to this problem is;

  • Use ECU with MAP sensor, not AFM,
  • Take the guts out of buggered RB26 AFMs,
  • Install RB26 AFMs so they look like they're still used,
  • Wire up a circuit from the ECU through the (now unused) loom plugs of the AFMs so that the car will stall when they are unplugged.

This then makes it look perfectly stock, and will also pass the "functionality test" that the more educated among our law enforcement/revenue generating public servants might know to do to check if the AFMs are used by the ECU.

Basically I like the idea of popping my bonnet and it looking virtually standard to the untrained eye.

I had a fairly heavily modded R32 GTS-t with an RB30 twin cam and I was able to achieve this but I'm finding the task a little more difficult with my R32 GTR.

My mods aren't by any stretch crazy..............R34 GTR N1 turbos, Nistune ECU, Z32 AFM's, 650cc injectors, walbro fuel pump etc..............

Now the issue I'm having which I'm a bit annoyed at myself didn't click earlier is trying to bolt up the Z32 AFM's to the standard airbox (sourcing this was a nightmare in itself), naturally they flow more as they are larger in diameter and therefore in turn the bolt holes don't line up, its not as simple as just redrilling the holes as one of the connection points for the AFM to the standard airbox is recessed.

Basically I'm hoping that people have gone down the same path as me (trying to make the engine bay look standard) and have a relatively easy fix for me (adaptor perhaps?!)

Cheers in advance.

Don't complicate things.Just grab Nismo AFMs since you are running N1s. Easist way to go when everything is weighed up IMO. The re-tune on the Nistune would be a breeze to boot

  • Like 1

r35 GTR afms. You can buy housings for about $150AUD on ebay (check ebay UK too), then get a pair of sensors and pigtails. sensors are from any parts shop and the connectors themselves I ordered from Ballenger motorsports. but any place that does wiring bits will do it. I have 200usd in my whole set-up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...