Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically I like the idea of popping my bonnet and it looking virtually standard to the untrained eye.

I had a fairly heavily modded R32 GTS-t with an RB30 twin cam and I was able to achieve this but I'm finding the task a little more difficult with my R32 GTR.

My mods aren't by any stretch crazy..............R34 GTR N1 turbos, Nistune ECU, Z32 AFM's, 650cc injectors, walbro fuel pump etc..............

Now the issue I'm having which I'm a bit annoyed at myself didn't click earlier is trying to bolt up the Z32 AFM's to the standard airbox (sourcing this was a nightmare in itself), naturally they flow more as they are larger in diameter and therefore in turn the bolt holes don't line up, its not as simple as just redrilling the holes as one of the connection points for the AFM to the standard airbox is recessed.

Basically I'm hoping that people have gone down the same path as me (trying to make the engine bay look standard) and have a relatively easy fix for me (adaptor perhaps?!)

Cheers in advance.

Best option.

Sell z32's

Sell ecu

Get map like link or motech and don't worry about blowing a vac hose and be stranded to get raped by predators in the wild suburban streets.

Keep factory air box without hacking it up.

  • Like 2

The cleverest solution to this problem is;

  • Use ECU with MAP sensor, not AFM,
  • Take the guts out of buggered RB26 AFMs,
  • Install RB26 AFMs so they look like they're still used,
  • Wire up a circuit from the ECU through the (now unused) loom plugs of the AFMs so that the car will stall when they are unplugged.

This then makes it look perfectly stock, and will also pass the "functionality test" that the more educated among our law enforcement/revenue generating public servants might know to do to check if the AFMs are used by the ECU.

Basically I like the idea of popping my bonnet and it looking virtually standard to the untrained eye.

I had a fairly heavily modded R32 GTS-t with an RB30 twin cam and I was able to achieve this but I'm finding the task a little more difficult with my R32 GTR.

My mods aren't by any stretch crazy..............R34 GTR N1 turbos, Nistune ECU, Z32 AFM's, 650cc injectors, walbro fuel pump etc..............

Now the issue I'm having which I'm a bit annoyed at myself didn't click earlier is trying to bolt up the Z32 AFM's to the standard airbox (sourcing this was a nightmare in itself), naturally they flow more as they are larger in diameter and therefore in turn the bolt holes don't line up, its not as simple as just redrilling the holes as one of the connection points for the AFM to the standard airbox is recessed.

Basically I'm hoping that people have gone down the same path as me (trying to make the engine bay look standard) and have a relatively easy fix for me (adaptor perhaps?!)

Cheers in advance.

Don't complicate things.Just grab Nismo AFMs since you are running N1s. Easist way to go when everything is weighed up IMO. The re-tune on the Nistune would be a breeze to boot

  • Like 1

r35 GTR afms. You can buy housings for about $150AUD on ebay (check ebay UK too), then get a pair of sensors and pigtails. sensors are from any parts shop and the connectors themselves I ordered from Ballenger motorsports. but any place that does wiring bits will do it. I have 200usd in my whole set-up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 6 foot 91kg.   Thanks Brett, ill have a look into them!   Whoa 197 haha, I'm about 182 but not that far behind you in weight. My back is probably a little wider than most people my size and weight so I would most certainly need the XL seat by the sounds of it.  The car is insured to drive 1000km a year (might up that at some stage) but it would likely take me at least 5 years before I would ever get close to 15,000km. If I don't buy the real ones I kind of feel like I'm cheaping out though lol Spent all this money on good quality parts every where else just to cheap out on the seats? probably my OCD.  I did find these guys who are more local to me and have copy seats in stock.  https://vosta.com.au/collections/reclining-bucket-seats/products/japan-stadia-ii-gradation Or if I want to go genuine   https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/brand/bride-racing/?srsltid=AfmBOooYKfh5btzB8-ezRTTokM0AqQ3GyWKcfutaMRWBzosRLNSFQhLt
    • Good. I was worried we were still talking about the block. Yes, larger baffled sump is a good idea. Do not touch the pump unless you're going on a whole build saga. Read the oil control thread on here - at least the last 100 pages or so. We drew some reasonable things together in there. The short version is that venting the sump is more important than almost anything else you do.
    • Perhaps just get a proper mechanic who is good with Nissan autos (they were more or less the same across all the RWD, FWD, 4WD cars at that time, even if they were actually different boxes) to give it a good going over. He might be able to plug in a Consult or other scan tool and find out if it's got some fault codes. Otherwise, my approach to the problem if not liking the way the auto was workign behind my RB20 turbo, was to drop it on the workshop floor and put in the manual box that it really needed. That solved all the auto problems.
    • Gotcha, I mean that is at least good to hear. Are there signs, or troubleshooting tips to make sure the transmission is operating properly?
×
×
  • Create New...