Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts-t Anti Roll Bar Link Bracket Snapping, Alternatives?

Dose Pipe Sutututu
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Hey All,

So my car has now snapped a 3rd anti roll bar link bracket, this time I didn't do it my mate did when he spun my car off the track.

Background:

Front ARB is a 24mm solid adjustable Whiteline product, currently set to 3/4 (stiffness) using new links..

ARB & links are fine, however it's the bracket that keeps on sheering off.

So what are the alternatives for R33s? I know S13/14/15 can be bolted directly to the control arm like what is provided by Whiteline (which removes the need to use the weak mounting point).

However look at the R33, there's no real way of accomplishing the same thing.

(reference sau.com.au)

post-35676-1280053106.jpg

I did do some searching on the net, however there weren't any real solutions to this issue I have.. probably the only option I have is going back OEM ARB and just get slightly stiffer front springs to achieve what I need.

le sigh :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You're snapping the pressed steel bent up thingo stamped with an R in the photo, yeah?

If so, then your solution, in the absence of any better option, is to box up that bracket with some extra steel.

yep, and it only happens when there are heaps rapid oscillations such as running off the track lol.

I was hoping an off the shelf solution, similar to what I posted about how s chassis cars go about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

I'd be surprised as i wiuldn't think it that common an issue. When i fitted my whiteline arb tho i had to flip the link over to get it to align with the mount & bar holes. To ask yhe obvious, you have done the same, and haven't really preloaded the link/bracket trying to get them aligned?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Factory brackets in some cases can tear out with upgraded bars. I know that the early Whiteline rear ARB's for EK civics were tearing the mounts out of the rear X-member. They had to develop a heavy X-member brace to address the problem. I heard of similar problems with Foresters when people started upgrading rear ARB's. These are only 2 examples of cars I've owned and looked at upgrading - could be a lot more out there that suffer the same fate.

Have you talked to Whiteline about this. They actually do take some accountability for this kind of thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted

Why don't you first stress releive the bracket by heating it to around 400c, then when you fit the bracket back on, put the bracket between two washers on either side before you bolt it back on. It should hopefully allow that tiny bit more flex, so it doesn't snap.

Just made that up on the spot based on the problem, but it should help your issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...