Apexi Fc D-jetro First Tune!

[ReeceGTS-T]

hey guys, i'm nearing the point where I will have to get my ER34 tuned as I have a new ecu on the way and it the mix of getting my turbo highflowed with Stao of Hypergear.

I have been collecting surporting mods over the last 6 months:

- 3 inch turbo back exhaust (3 inch dump/front pipe x force bell mouth)

- 570cc denso injectors

- tomei fuel pump

- apexi fc d jetro (including air temp sensors)

- blitz return flow FMIC

- manual gfb bleed valve (soon to be blitz ebc)

- apexi pod with 3 inch induction

- xtreme hd button clutch

and all the other good stuff, turbo timer, new bov etc.

I would like to know who in Victoria has no troubles getting the d jetro up and happening in Melbourne area and a rough price as I have never done anything like this before, I have seen/read about a few places and I will check them out but a guide will be good.

what sort of rwkw would I be looking at, i'd be happy with around 250rwkw.

this is my stage one build, later on ill be going plazmaman ffp, pon cams, external w/g, cam gears etc all that sort of stuff but that's another year away as I want my car to be mainly for the street with quick response for a while before I go top mount gt30.

I may have been missed some things but as far as i'm aware I have all the surporting mods.

thanks

Edited October 27, 2015 by ReeceGTS-T

[ReeceGTS-T]

also - I have installed most of the gear and do know my way around a bit of it, I would just have to have the tuner install the fc and injectors and he's ready to dail up.

[kingtube69]

I would say anywhere between 230 and 260 the latter is more likely.

[ReeceGTS-T]

where would you say the restrictions are?

I don't see why it can't go 250rwkw all day.

has been noted that the return flow FMIC can be a hidderance but plenty of people running these and making a lot more power, would it be worth getting a crossover pipe that goes over the timing cover or best to just wait till forward facing plenum is installed?

i'm pretty sure the highflow turbo's are good for around 265rwkw at 18 - 20psi.

Edited October 27, 2015 by ReeceGTS-T

[GTSBoy]

He said he thought 260 was more likely. There's no restrictions unless you include a pod filter sucking hot engine bay air.....which I certainly do.

Box it up or have your manhood called into question.

[ReeceGTS-T]

yeah might look into a box sooner rather than later, I wouldn't of thought it would of been a variable factor on the dyno being 90% of the time it's on there the hood would be open and having a huge fan doing it's thing to get rid of the heat.

so say car makes the 260rwkw, what sort of loses will be seen due to unguarded pod filter?

anyone ever tried running the induction pipe through where the stock intercooler pipes go and having a pod hidden behind the bumper OUTSIDE of the engine bay?

(((any good brand whore boxes to suit er34 around?)))

[hypergear]

Return flow cooler is no good. 245rwkws with return flow and 265rwkws with PWR FMIC. Speak to Trent at Chequrered tuning

[ReeceGTS-T]

thanks for double confirming that, Stao. that's a shame they are no good I love my blitz intercooler haha.

so does that mean i'll have to get a cooler that has the straight through core and pipe that goes over the clutch fan?

as I do have a intercooler in the shed (raggerty thing it is lol) that may just do?

p.s had my turbo housings and chra posted to you today Stao, should be with you before the week is out, left my phone number and details in the box please give me a call if any problems.

p.p.s @ stao, does trent muck around with the d jetro's at all, what sort of price for install and full hoo haa tune?

thanks.

Edited October 27, 2015 by ReeceGTS-T

[breaker1845]

Easier to ring Trent and ask him. Tuning costs are variable as it is hard to quote a dollar figure over the phone as it may take more or less time when on the actual dyno.

Somewhere around the $700 mark would be an estimate, depends on how much time is spent on the tune as i said before.

[GTSBoy]

I wouldn't of thought it would of been a variable factor on the dyno being 90% of the time it's on there the hood would be open and having a huge fan doing it's thing to get rid of the heat.

so say car makes the 260rwkw, what sort of loses will be seen due to unguarded pod filter?

It doesn't matter what it does on the dyno. It's how it kills the power when you're driving on the street with hot air.

[STATUS]

pod filters fine, no need for a box really.

[Artic Choc]

hey reece, if your going for the op6 highflow then i don't see why you wouldn't make your 250kw.. but then every engine is different so yeah there's that.

i ran no box on my pod filter for a while.. but i did notice better throttle response once the box was fitted.. also keeping heat away is always a bonus so probs a kw or 2 to be had..

your blitz return flow should be fine for 250kw.. i had a cooling pro fmic on mine (when you bought my old coils overs off me) and it made 265kw at 18 psi and that fmic is shit so your blitz should be fine!...

on a side note i would have personally gone with nistune for your ecu i know a few people that regretted going pfc v nistune and have made the swap on their neos... plus Trent did mention the nitune runs better on the old neos then pfc (also so much cheaper). i would recommend an ebc like you mentioned my old skyline ran a bleed valve and it caused me to much troubles.

and the u21 highflow would be better suited for response as it is a whole 300-400 rpm sooner then the op6 give or take supporting mods and it should net you close if not 250kw with a bucket load of torque

cheers bro keep us updated

[ReeceGTS-T]

thanks for the info jake! alot of good points.

i will be getting an ebc before i get the tune in early/mid december, i tossed up between the nistune and pwc as very common tuner friendly bits.

went with the pfc due to getting a great deal.

will run around 18psi on mine and will just get it restriction tested on the exhaust and intake side of things and look to update when i go foward facing plenum and get a plazmaman cooler then probably.

was thinking about doing the 21u highflowed but would rather the 20 - 30kw up top out of it. still very streetable obviously the op6.

my bleed valve is actually pretty good it seems it only spikes 1 psi and holds the set 10psi through the rev range. but i just skimped on that just to get a quick cheap thrill haha. will be upgrading like i said.

will have to get a custom intake made up as i am losing some of the return lines on my current one due to map sensor so no need for fitting barbs.

read through your build christ she's a tough rig! ya got all the bells and whistles. im a little jealous ? ur inspired me to go with some aggresive offset wheels i will need to get some new photos of it soon.

got the bloody pimp daddy 20s off and threw them in the shed what a joke.

deffs worth getting amounst these forums and reading up as much as you can u learn alot and find so many parts that are so mint! goodbye wallet!

once again thanks jake. 250's the goal!

Edited November 4, 2015 by ReeceGTS-T

[Artic Choc]

ahhhhh so good! well im happy to help out man.. that's what most of us are here for.. ive learnt a shit ton from the people on here and in person also..

yep shes come along way since you saw it..but its been having gremlins lately so its been pissing me off haha also ive since changed my wheels to a less aggressive more practical setup.. them old 235 everyday tyres were getting punished so upped the size and to semis and im now worried im going to break something when i hook gears on boost hahaha my gearbox hates me right now!

yep i would choose the op6 over u21 as well people make stupid power and torque using the op6 its a bloody great highflow worth the upgrade! mind you if you keep an eye out for any ss2's for under 1g 2nd hand in good nick, jump on it theyr rare to see comeup but man its worth it!

[ReeceGTS-T]

just an update:

have recieved my highflow turbo (op6) back from hypergear and am very happy with it! have had it fitted for about 2 weeks now and have adjusted to the slight response difference as i had previously had a 21u stocker in my gtt.

it hits so much harder about 400rpm later.

stao did a fantastic job as the highflow looks brand new and has even installed a new wastegate flapper that have been out for a few weeks now for better control.

it was a direct bolt on, a slide bend in the water line was required and can be done with yoyr hands and takes 5 seconds, i reccommend fitting all lines before mounting the turbo to exhaust manifold and also the dump and front pipe put on the turbo before you even put it back in. it all slides in from the front with ease.

i have also recieved my d jetro power fc from nengun, it came with all the sensors and harneses required to fit including air temp bits. it seems to be a redone rb26 fc so if the data initialize is seleted on the commander it will have to be sent back to be redone. this is the only way to recieve a brand new unit for er34 as they are not made anymore as far as i know.

still saving for a tune and a well deserved holiday at the same time and looking to get done around jan/feb with chequered tuning! will be driving away with whatever it gets with around 18psi if safe.

only downside to deiving the car right now is it is going into r&r over 4000rpm due to factory ecu safety features but still is a pleasure to drive. (turbo was ran in for around 300km)

[Artic Choc]

Trent will look after you bro hes been nothing less then amazing for my services.. 18psi will be a breeze to get 250kw on...maybe even get a two stage set up say if you make 250kw on 16psi and 267kw on 18psi (examples) can swap between the two for daily or what not

[KiwiRS4T]

yeah might look into a box sooner rather than later, I wouldn't of thought it would of been a variable factor on the dyno being 90% of the time it's on there the hood would be open and having a huge fan doing it's thing to get rid of the heat.

so say car makes the 260rwkw, what sort of loses will be seen due to unguarded pod filter?

anyone ever tried running the induction pipe through where the stock intercooler pipes go and having a pod hidden behind the bumper OUTSIDE of the engine bay?

(((any good brand whore boxes to suit er34 around?)))

Throw the turbo timer away. How do you see where you're going driving with the bonnet up?

[ReeceGTS-T]

was ment that when on the dyno induction filter should not matter whatever the set up, may it be stock box, pod, boxed pod, no filter.

and ill keep my turbo timer i love my gizmo's, and i do believe letting the car idle for a couple of minutes after a decent squirt allows the engine/oil to cool and prolong engine life.

Edited December 6, 2015 by ReeceGTS-T

[GTSBoy]

and i do believe letting the car idle for a couple of minutes after a decent squirt allows the engine/oil to cool and prolong engine life.

And what is wrong with doing that manually? I wait in my car until the EGT gauge drops to 400°C or so. If I haven't been driving it hard that is only ~30s and is perfectly fine. If I have been leaning on it a bit more heavily that might take 90s. And if I don't have the time and it's still ~500°C when I shut it down, I grimace and realise that I'm probably not doing much damage anyway. Either way, it's not taking a lot of time out of my life.

Turbo timers are actually defectably illegal. Leaving an unattended car running is not kosher. I'm not sure how they get around that with newer diesel vehicles with built in TTs or cars with remote start functionality.....but it's still something a cop can ping you for in your Skyline. Best avoided if possible.

Edited December 7, 2015 by GTSBoy

[-S-]

90 seconds. Got it. Going to set mine around there . Thanks