Jump to content
SAU Community

Injectors 2,4,6 Have No Pulse.


Spinning
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have a problem and was wondering if any one could help me out please!

Injectors 2,4 and 6 do not have injector pulse. 1,3 and 5 do and are fine. All 6 injectors have power. I've checked the 3 ground wires at the ecu and are all reading they are earthed. I've gone around the engine bay and double/triple checked earth points. I can only see the problem as a bad earth problem but would like some feed back.

The engine is a Rb25/30 using a rb20 loom and ecu(nistune), also using all rb20 components. The engine is running just rough, can hold idle though. The only things I don't have plumbed in is the intercooler/pipes and the afm.

Help would be greatly appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont have an rb20 wiring diagram but the rb25 wiring shares a common power feed between all 6 injectors and all are separately grounded through the ECU. Any reason why you are using an rb20 harness? More curious then anything.

I would put a meter on it and check the wires are going to the right place on the ECU. And also make sure that there isnt a break in the circuit. Also check that they are all getting a good circuit from the Ignition relay

If this is fine then you will need to look at the ECU side. Is the ECU being grounded properly (what sort of ECU is it, is it setup correctly?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using the rb20 loom because it's the simplest way of going about it, I'm not running vct and I'm using all the rb20 sensors. I've previously had the ecu(nistune) tuned with my rb20 before it decided it wanted to die. I forgot to ad it's in a r32 if you Havn't already guessed.

Ahhh okay, on the diagrams I can find the rb20 computer only has 3 injector grounds.

I'll have another look tonight after work and see if I can solve it. Thanks guys..

Edited by Spinning
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Duncan, RB20DET doesn't use a resistor pack.

Sinista, only the coils utilise a PTU.

RB20DET ECU grounds injectors through pins 101 (1), 105 (2), 103 (3), 112 (4), 110 (5), 114 (6). Pins 107 / 108 connect the injectors through the ECU internals to earth.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...