Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the things I need to do a transmission fluid change on v35. I know there is a known problem with manual v35.. But i remember hearing it makes much better if u flush transmission oil..

So what things I need to do transmission oil change.

What brand..? What things? And how much should I pay for labour?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460662-v35-transmission-flush/
Share on other sites

If its the same as the M35 (which would make sense as they're both VQ motors)

Gearbox is RE5R05A
Gearbox fluid: Nissan matic J (or Nissan matic S, or Nulon synthetic (compatible with nissan C/D/J/K, $16.60perL) or Valvoline synthetic (compatible with nissan D/J/K, $10perL))

Auto trans fluid change interval: 60,000kms

IIRC there's about 4L in the pan, but about 10L in the entire transmission. I've just dumped the 4L three times with around 5000kms in between. Fluid was putrid at the start tho.

If you want to do it yourself you need to dump the pan and clean it. Refill through the dipstick. Then disconnect a line to the trans oil cooler and run it into a 2Litre container. Run the engine till the container is full then put 2L down the dipstick tube and run the engine to pump out another 2L . Repeat until the fluid comes out clean and fill to the correct level.

Or you can pay someone hundreds of dollars to do it for you . Ring up a couple of transmission shops as well as your local Nissan dealer to get quotes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Thomas! Sounds like you've made some progress. Are you able to drive it and enjoy it a bit now ? 
    • HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
×
×
  • Create New...