Bills 33 Gtst Streeter/track Car

[admS15]

Good advice @ActionDan I think this is how I will go. It's what I used to do when I first took the 33 to the track. It handled that quite easily and eventually I would do a warm up lap, then go flat out for the rest of a 10 minute session.

As @Duncansaid, we shouldn't have any problems going flat out for 20 minutes. I did this quite a few times but would do 1 cool down half way through as the tyres AR1 would go a bit greasy. Some of my PB's came towards the end of a session weirdly. Coolant temp wouldn't really move and oil was maxing around 120-125c with an eBay spec oil cooler and rad. Brakes where also fine with race pads and fluid, I did cook some caliper seals a couple of times on the standard rears. Did back to back 20 minute sessions once, the car didn't like that much. The only time it ever pushed coolant to the OF bottle, lol.

Obviously I'm now not as confident in the engine as much as before. When the car first hit the track, comp was around 170 psi even. Now it's more like 150-160, so there is some definite wear that's occured.

If I don't track the 33, then there's not much  point in owning it. So I will but to not put it under too much pressure, will do cool downs, reduce the rev limit to 7k, maybe lower boost and timing a touch too.

In saying all this, the aim is to improve times and there is a couple of big things that can help here. Tyres, either Z221 or A050 and possibly some driver training. Both of those are not cheap. It's one of those gotta pay to play type situations.

 

@soviet_merlin yes people do that, I use to do a warm up, 2 hot, cool and 1 or 2 if I could fit in hot again. Worked well. Later on  I wanted to get as many hot laps as I could, so would not worry about cool down on a 10 minute session. At Phillip island cool downs where a no no as you'd only get 2 hot laps on a 10 minute session.

 

 @KinkstaahGreg, you are a unique case who should just expect the unexpected as a given, lol.

As far as tyres lasting a 20 minute session. I don't think we can expect that if we're trying to do time attack laps 1 after the other. I mean look at what SVG does in V8 supercars to manage his tyres. He  drives as straight as possible without wheel spinning or shock loading.  Backs off on attacking or trying to pass to keep the tyres in the right temp window. Somehow he still manages to be 99% as quick and gets better tyre life than anyone else. We all need to focus on that a bit and hopefully our shitty r specs will last 20 minutes on our shitty Nissans.

[Duncan]

Proper tyres last much better, it is chalk and cheese. We used 1x set of Z221 medium/hards for the Bathurst 6 hour race, flat out except for pit stops 

One the race car (which is pretty standard), I ran a set of Z221 softs (superlap spec) for a 20min session too, although it was winter not mid summer.

Even for slightly serious track time it is way more fun than anything streety.

[Duncan]

actually, sorry to bang on but something else I forgot to mention....better tyres mean you need way less brake as well, so it is win/win. you don't have to knock off an extra 10klm/h in every corner, every lap

[No Crust Racing]

Agree, I have some used Porsche slicks sitting on my new rims for when the Silvia ever runs again. 

Not sure what R comp I'll try next, maybe Z221s also. 

 

[admS15]

On 23/03/2023 at 12:19 PM, Duncan said:

actually, sorry to bang on but something else I forgot to mention....better tyres mean you need way less brake as well, so it is win/win. you don't have to knock off an extra 10klm/h in every corner, every lap

You can bang on as much as you like. Getting this sort of info from people who actually race is always welcome and that's a great point about the brakes.

[admS15]

On 23/03/2023 at 10:43 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

 the only thing that gave up was the brakes OR the motor would push coolant (when I had a stock motor pushing 372kW lol).

That motor took a hell of a beating. Surprised it lasted so long. Edward Lees provided you with a good one.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Just now, admS15 said:

That motor took a hell of a beating. Surprised it lasted so long. Edward Lees provided you with a good one.

Added that odo wind back sauce lol.. 

[soviet_merlin]

Great comments and food for thought everyone! Good stuff!

[MBS206]

Just turn the power down, and drive it hard, with less worry.

While it's great to set an amazingly fast time and win a competition, from someone who has busted a few RBs, give me a pretty much stock RB25, good tyres and good suspension, with good brakes, and I'd rather do session after session, track day after track day, than be breaking and fixing and worried about it.

 

On a pretty much stock R33, I put Project Mu pads in, fresh brake fluid, serviced the engine, and threw a set of semi slicks at it.

Car was then double entered at Wakefield Park. (Me driving, and Shell, the owner of the car driving).

Last sessions of the day were extended, and ended up like a fast driver change in put lane.

Only thing that popped up, was at the end of the session, on the cool down lap, brake pedal went long, and then vanished on the way down pit lane.

 

Give me that any and every day,ultiple times a year, than spannering on a car all the time...

 

My R33 with the 25/30 in it would make the rear semi slicks a touch too hot just trying to put pour down down the main straight of OP GP.

also it only made the third session before it made the loudest of loud knock knock jokes that sent a flag marshal cringing, and Duncan listening to it at put exit, while I drove into pit lane

 

also one of my earliest Memories of Duncan and Neil, ha ha ha! So yes, breaking shit has its upsides

[Duncan]

2 hours ago, MBS206 said:

.....before it made the loudest of loud knock knock jokes .....

 

#rblyf

[Kinkstaah]

It's just one of those things, people kinda/rarely investigate a power failure. I mean:

RB25/30's generally get sent to higher power levels than stock RB25's that are unopened.

What is it about a RB25/30 that actually resists damage from power better than stock RB25 ordinarily would?

Why do people expect it to last longer, then?

Keep it all reasonable and drive it hard. You can see how well that has worked for Bill in this case, there's reasons for it!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

find a RB25DE NEO (yes no T), keep it as a spare motor, those things take some abuse as well!

big sump, oil/water feeds for turbo, pop in some higher lift cams/springs, ARP studs and send city..

[admS15]

I'm just going to keep driving the f*kker as is with a little bit of mechanical sympathy. I still want to set better times, turning the power down isn't really an option, maybe a little bit.

Bought some new street tyres on an eBay special yesterday $143 each incl post, got delivered today.

 

Had these on the rs265 Megane. Went alright for what they where. Zestino 07A 265/35/18 Should grip better than 7 year old rock hard ad08r and leave me with more leftover $ for proper track tyres.

[admS15]

On 28/03/2023 at 11:10 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

find a RB25DE NEO (yes no T), keep it as a spare motor, those things take some abuse as well!

big sump, oil/water feeds for turbo, pop in some higher lift cams/springs, ARP studs and send city..

I think you spelt RB30 wrong..

I dunno, I think I'd rather just rebuild what I've got if possible. 

[admS15]

Still waiting on 1 of the  engine mounts for the SQ5. Decided to use today's public holiday to tackle 1 of the other things on the to do list and fix the active exhaust. These things have speakers in the exhaust (yes speakers), I suppose that's the easy way to make a diesel sound good. It is a bit of a wank but is OEM and a feature of the car, so would like it working. (I did rig up some test speakers externally and can confirm it sounds alright)

The OEM speakers are 2ohm and 6.5 inch and marine grade. Finding suitable replacements that are readily available was a bit of a task, I got some JBL that are 2.3 ohm and 6.5 inch. Unfortunately not marine, I got a bit creative with some waterproof spray and sealant. Will have to see how long they last. The factory ones only seem to last a few years anyway.

To replace the speakers, the exhaust needs to be removed and the housings cut open.

 

 

 

And open, not so surprising. Corrosion due to water. There was a fair bit of water that came out. The assumption is it's condensation that gathers over time. This would also explain the rusty orange colour inside the exhaust tips.

 

 

Of course all the bolts where corroded and snapped or had to be grinded off. New holes where redrilled for the new speakers.

All cleaned up and ready for the JBLs

I decided against welding them back up. Firstly, I hate welding and secondly was worried about potentially melting the new speakers. Considering the pod sits on top, I just sikaflexed them back together and used cable ties to keep them in position until fully set. This will also make it easier to repair again if needed. No grinding required.

And finished

 

In a bid to hopefully stop the condensation building up I have drilled a 4mm hole into the bottom pod. Not sure if I'm going to put a screw in and occasionally drain out or if I should just leave it open permanently. Will sleep on it.

Refitted exhaust to car and can confirm is now working and sounds good. Can be turned off through the drive select modes if peace and quiet is desired.

 

 

[MBS206]

You should totally rewire those speakers to play some good awful song at pedestrians

[soviet_merlin]

9 hours ago, admS15 said:

These things have speakers in the exhaust (yes speakers), I suppose that's the easy way to make a diesel sound good. It is a bit of a wank but is OEM and a feature of the car, so would like it working. (I did rig up some test speakers externally and can confirm it sounds alright)

I had no idea this was a thing! My mind is boggled. Makes me wonder about Matt's comment as well.

Next step: LFA exhaust sound mod.

[admS15]

On 08/04/2023 at 7:15 AM, soviet_merlin said:

 

Next step: LFA exhaust sound mod.

It can be done, there is a sound boosting device that can be custom programmed, lol.

At this point, I'll hard pass.

[Kinkstaah]

Aftermarket speakers for mufflers. We're finally here.

[admS15]

On 08/04/2023 at 9:19 AM, Kinkstaah said:

Aftermarket speakers for mufflers. We're finally here.

I forgot to mention, there is another speaker/device the Germans call a soundaktor. It's located on the firewall behind the engine and I believe it simulates engine induction sounds. Lol, bloody Germans.

Unsurprisingly, this exhaust speaker crap is rife in Euro land. Audi, VW, BMW and Maserati to name a few all use them.