Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm gunna put my engineer hat on and say that shimming the relief valve cannot compensate for wider bearing clearances. Either the pump has the capacity to maintain pressure at the flow required in the wider clearances, or it doesn't. The relief valve just raises the limiter for those moments when the pump has more than enough capacity.

  • Like 1

Long block is just about complete now, balancer, oil heat exchanger, clutch/gearbox and manifolds to go and I can start thinking about putting it in.

Going to try put it all in as 1 unit with manifolds on, hopefully will go in without trouble.

Thanks for input @GTSBoy I can't see it hurting anything.

 

1 hour ago, admS15 said:

Long block is just about complete now, balancer, oil heat exchanger, clutch/gearbox and manifolds to go and I can start thinking about putting it in.

Going to try put it all in as 1 unit with manifolds on, hopefully will go in without trouble.

Thanks for input @GTSBoy I can't see it hurting anything.

 

It's been many many years since I did an RB in/out of my skyline, from memory I used to pull it all out complete with manifolds, but put it back in with exhaust manifold removed.

That was with a high mount 6 boost Mani, stock one would probably have more space around it.

 

On 04/12/2023 at 9:14 AM, MBS206 said:

It's been many many years since I did an RB in/out of my skyline, from memory I used to pull it all out complete with manifolds, but put it back in with exhaust manifold removed.

That was with a high mount 6 boost Mani, stock one would probably have more space around it.

 

Good call, I'm probably going to leave the turbo and exh manifold off as its not too bad to fit in situ but intake side will be pre fitted for sure. I'd rather punch myself in the face than fitting that in car. 

  • Haha 1

They help, especially if you are going solo

This job is 10x easier with a second set of hands and if you have a helper, you can get away without the leveler. 

I also used ratcheting straps to help change angles. 

It's cheap, can sell later and recover most of the cost if you want to. 

  • Like 1

100% put on the intake and exhaust manifold including turbos if possible, way easier to do all that on a stand

 

10 minutes ago, No Crust Racing said:

I also used ratcheting straps to help change angles. 
 

I've got one of those levellers but I agree ratchet straps are a much better solution (or a second pair of hands). The levellers take up a lot of space and don't give as much flexibility as it looks for angle (you need to start within the right range of adjustment, and that bloody handle will impact engine when you try and adjust it anyway

  • Like 1

I use seat belts to put the engine in, that thing makes it far to tall and ends up in the way. Also being material seat belts don’t scratch your freshly painted rocker covers 

  • Thanks 1

I will have a 2nd pair of hands. My neighbour is a legend, helped me with removal and has offered his services for installation.

I do have a proper sling that came with my engine hoist so can use that, also have some seatbelts around, ratchet straps etc. 

I'll chat with my neighbour and see what he prefers.

Yuh, I agree that a fabric sling is better than most levelling devices for the reasons already expressed.

But f**k using seat belts. Not fit for purpose. A more correct sling can be obtained from safety shops/lifting equipment suppliers for not a lot of coin, and is engineered for the job. Seat belts give me the willies.

Even our friends at China Inc (Bunnings) have sling straps. 2m 1000kg flat sling is <$10 (surprisingly!). Longer stronger stuff still only ~$20.

Also have used seatbelts for engines/boxes etc. in the past. Even my old man used them when he pulled cars back into shape, preferred them over using chains and shit.

34 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

The weight a seat belt is designed to carry is far higher then the weight of an engine

Yeah, nah. The load that it is expected to be subjected to in a collision might well be greater than the load that it would hold up in a dead lift, but it would be expected to be thrown away afterwards, after only being exposed to load once, and it also wouldn't have knots and other shit and sharp edges from lifting hooks and so on.

Absolutely not fit for purpose. I don't care that every man and his dog has been (mis)using them this way since they became a thing. One little fray on the side of such a belt and it can tear through faster than you can swear about it.

With proper, rated lifting slings, we cut them up and throw them in the bin at the slightest sign of edge fraying. And you're using the same seat belt over and over again, typing knots in it and crossing your fingers that it won't drop your engine on the front of the car? I just don't follow the logic.

  • Like 3

If you're re-installing the motor, might as well just leave the manifold/turbo on. Beats fitting them after the motor goes in, it's a cnut of a job, especially with a high mount (not in your case).

There is definitely more than enough room to get the motor in with the manifolds pre-installed.

If you get really bored and go through 200000+ of BS in my thread you'll see a photo of my motor lifted into the car with both manifolds on.

 

29 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, nah. The load that it is expected to be subjected to in a collision might well be greater than the load that it would hold up in a dead lift, but it would be expected to be thrown away afterwards, after only being exposed to load once, and it also wouldn't have knots and other shit and sharp edges from lifting hooks and so on.

Absolutely not fit for purpose. I don't care that every man and his dog has been (mis)using them this way since they became a thing. One little fray on the side of such a belt and it can tear through faster than you can swear about it.

With proper, rated lifting slings, we cut them up and throw them in the bin at the slightest sign of edge fraying. And you're using the same seat belt over and over again, typing knots in it and crossing your fingers that it won't drop your engine on the front of the car? I just don't follow the logic.

100% fit for purpose, does the job every time including chev iron v8 with the auto transmission still attached. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...