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New box, sounds like a 2nd gear clutch dump is mandatory lol
Im a little far from the outskirts of Mexico but I'll see what I can do [emoji6]

Fastway finally delivered my rear rotors yesterday and i was able to take the car for a short drive.

I always thought the old box was pretty good but after experiencing the newy, jeez the synchros in the old one where shot, especially 2nd. The gears just about fall in. Just awesome. Im going to feel bad abusing it[emoji26]
  • 3 years later...

3 and a half years later, time for an update. Where to start? 

Well, car has pretty much stayed as it was except that it's now on Victorian club reg. Had to return certain obvious parts to stock for rwc purposes and other than dealing with some fools at Vic roads the process was straightforward. 

The new gearbox talked about in the posts above is no longer with us. It developed a whine from 1st to 4th on it's 1st track day. Dumping the oil told a sad story, was full of gold/brass flakes. Not sure exactly what but something broke. Box was removed and upon recommendation of the seller returned to Nissan under a warranty claim. It took a hell of a long time (8 months, I think they even sent it back to Japan), surprisingly the claim was accepted and a new box was supplied. Meanwhile I had sourced a 2nd handy from gumtree which turned out to be OK and is still fitted. 

Pre covid I bought a new set of tyres AR1's and tried to better my PB's at PI and Sandown multiple times but for some reason went backwards rather than forwards. Not sure why, tyres weren't totally fresh (around 70 weeks from prod date). So that has been in the back of my mind as a possible reason. 

Post covid, I haven't been to any track days, I think I did 1 in my rs265 megane. In the past few weeks I've decided to get the R33 ready for another attempt at going forward. 

First port of call was getting the alignment checked and getting corner weighing done. Settings now look like this. 

 

IMG_20221116_193039.thumb.jpg.0c9357f0871327d0bee032c428a959fd.jpg

I didn't get a before but it wasn't too bad, toe on the right side was out a bit. Probably from kerb hopping at Sandown. The camber I had eyeball adjusted at home and somehow got both sides spot on at 3°. Yay. 

Corner weights are within 1kg on the diagonal with me sitting inside. 

IMG_20221116_204900.thumb.jpg.446ab4a9c71750f0645e7f3f5c6bff1c.jpg

 

IMG_20221116_192603.thumb.jpg.cc3e045c87931b95dcb9cecf4b60d478.jpg

Obligatory pic. As you can see, still looks the same. 

Next thing on the agenda was getting a dyno health check done by Trent at  chequered tuning just to make sure everything is still as it should be. Was a good move as it was discovered that somehow some idiot (yours truly) accidentally turned the vct off. Power was obviously a little laggy but was also nosing over very early. Wasn't making the same power as before either. Previous output was 312rwkw and 475nm.

After some tweaking everything was good again and a little extra torque rwkw was found. Ended up with jusr under 315rwkw and 512nm.

 

IMG_20221202_172717.thumb.jpg.80028bb07b7a8401c48eb9fd414b01e6.jpg

 

IMG_20221202_180910.thumb.jpg.976510d961afe17005bfd8facd92ef5a.jpg

Trent continued to make some adjustments and fine tuning and the car idles and drives so much nicer. An excellent job once again. 

 

There's still a few things to do. I've got some new cheapy rotors to put on the front. Current ones have little stress cracks. Some new dba t3 rear rotors and some circo m119 rear pads that I picked up cheap. Yes, it's still a budget build so I'm always on the lookout for bargains. I did splash out though on some $100 Castrol srf brake fluid, lol. 

Hopefully I will get out to Sandown in the next few months and see where Its at. Still deciding if I should get new tyres or not too. 

That pretty much brings us up to date I think. Sorry for potato quality pics. Currently using an old shitty phone. 

  • Like 4
20 minutes ago, admS15 said:

3 and a half years later, time for an update. Where to start? 

Pre covid I bought a new set of tyres AR1's and tried to better my PB's at PI and Sandown multiple times but for some reason went backwards rather than forwards. Not sure why, tyres weren't totally fresh (around 70 weeks from prod date). So that has been in the back of my mind as a possible reason. 

Yeah the nankangs definitely go off after around 18months especially if not stored correctly and heat cycled too many times. 

Corner weighting and new alignment will make a difference. 

Good luck with the next track day, cool seeing cars like this being used.

Edited by robbo_rb180
On 07/12/2022 at 1:41 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Yeah the nankangs definitely go off after around 18months especially if not stored correctly and heat cycled too many times. 

Corner weighting and new alignment will make a difference. 

Good luck with the next track day, cool seeing cars like this being used.

Yeah, I really do believe the tyres where the problem unless the vct being turned off occurred at the same time, unlikely that would make 1.5 secs difference though.

It is cool using these cars for what they're meant for but we're all kind of in the same boat with how the values have soared and risking major damage. I guess we just need to take a bit more care. They're not throw away cars any more. 

On 07/12/2022 at 1:47 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

The beast is back!

If you need rotors, just DM here or IG, I'll see what I can do these days :) 

Yalla Habib, don't know about beast but she goes alright. Will definitely yell out for brake stuff when in need. 

  • Like 2
12 minutes ago, admS15 said:

believe the tyres where the problem

ex Nankang AR-1 owner/user too - they're grippy tyres, until they just give up without notice and you slide off the track lol.

I tried to use the same set a few years later (after the motor exploded, covid, etc.) at Luddenham and they were terrible, understeered all over the shop and kept allowing the rear end to bake tyres.

This is the dyno graph showing the vct off and power tapering off excessively. 

 

Before and after runs

IMG_20221202_224546.thumb.jpg.6c2dcab4848eb8b6fa260e0998a728fe.jpg

 

IMG_20221202_224656.thumb.jpg.e2cdd58a5568bc72595d98756cb38562.jpg

 

You can really see the power completely dying after 6k even the torque drops off significantly compared to the way the final runs. Don't really know what happened there. Vct being off shouldn't be making any difference to the top end. Either way, it's heaps better now. Starts pulling earlier, harder and keeps going. 

  • Like 2
On 07/12/2022 at 5:01 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

ex Nankang AR-1 owner/user too - they're grippy tyres, until they just give up without notice and you slide off the track lol.

I tried to use the same set a few years later (after the motor exploded, covid, etc.) at Luddenham and they were terrible, understeered all over the shop and kept allowing the rear end to bake tyres.

So, treat them like twins and put them in the bin. Got ya. 

Although I do have a barely used can of octopus grip tyre softener in the shed. Hmm, lol. Or I could just do some massive skids with them. That would be a fitting send off. 

  • Haha 2

Just testament really that shows a ~320kw setup with everything within tolerances will run nearly 'forever' and just work out of the box with minimal gripes, or as minimal as possible.

Finally someone posted some weights, it is interesting to see the R33 and R34 pretty similar, and fairly balanced too.

My car had a full tank of gas, spare in the boot, seats in it, ~10+kg of tools, sub, amp etc. Full road going setup when I weighed mine but:

Your Weight/My Weight

FR :450/422
FL :428/425
RR :328/344
RL : 305/329

They are pretty balanced out of the box.

Now that I look over my one again I've moved my oil cooler from FR to FL since then, which would make it 
I could then move my battery from FR to RL... making the whole thing 410/422 - 344/344 (assuming battery and oil cooler both weigh 15kg).

But I mean hey, it goes to show that spending all this time overthinking weight distribution, and swapping a V8 into a car is not even close to worth the time, compared to simply being reasonable to begin with and enjoying the car in its maximum fun/performance ratio.

image.thumb.png.2af46302560d15a26f20edb39f11e768.png

Good job being the gold standard 😛

  • Like 1

@Kinkstaah Yep, I followed the tried and tested sau traditional highflow set up. Has served me well. It's pretty basic but does the job. I saw the results and reliability John Richardson was getting with his car and based my mods off his with a bit more of a road going bias. 

For the corner weights. My car had full stock interior installed, just under a full tank of fuel but no spare or boot trim. Roll cage is also currently out. I figured leaving the rear seats in would compensate and be close to the same weight as the car in full track trim. I was also sitting in the driver's seat. I'm around 95kg. That makes the car weight 1406kg with almost full tank of fuel. Not bad. 

I think your cars cross weights can benefit from a bit of a tweak. 

Mine is within 1 kg. 

Fr 450 + Rl 305 = 755

Fl 428 + Rr 328 = 756

 

Yours

Fr 422 + Rl 329 = 751

Fl 425 + Rr 344 = 769

Thats 18kg difference in the diagonal weight. Apparently it's the diagonal weight that is meant to be balanced. That's what the bloke that did my car was saying anyway. (Put an RB back in it, should balance out perfectly) 🤣

Ultimately 25% at each wheel would be best but that ain't happening on a skyline. 

Question. Are those weights with you sitting in the car? Assuming they are. 

 

 

  • Like 1

Was actually interesting, I assumed the cross of 49.4% wasn't bad for literally no effort in my case. Maybe it is actually better stock!

I figured you weren't in the car for your weights. Guess the 34 sedan is a fat pig after all, or at least mine is with its massive cast wheels and all that other stuff I now am self concious of.

image.thumb.png.2d24a356c5dbcfb99faef24c09aa0b1b.png

This is with me sitting in it, which somehow makes the balance go from 49.4 to 49.75. Clearly the secret to corner weighting in my setup is just to eat some more pies.

Went to Country Cob bakery yesterday, enjoyed https://countrycobbakery.com.au/collections/beef-pies/products/slow-cook-bbq-beef-with-mac-cheese

image.thumb.png.12d3552ae013f6e4e10851f7666d7916.png

Perhaps this is a better plan going forward.

  • Like 1

Mmm, you made me hungry now. Will have to go sample one of those one day. 

 

Well those weights look much better with you in it. She is a bit of a porker but you do have subs, full tank, spare and other assorted crap in there too. Probably 1/2 a turn on a spring perch  would get that to 50/50.

So was that just put on the scale to get the weights and not adjusted at all to get optimum balance? If so, that's pretty damn good. 

Nah that was just how it sat. At the time I got it to find out how heavy they are, how heavy the LS swap was, and to give the information to Bilstein with regards to revalving shocks and such.

I get too OCD about the car being lower at one side than the other so I preferred that over optimal weight. The engineer who was doing the engineering (and the weighting) seemed really happy with the balance by default so I more or less figured it was close enough 😛

I did ask hiim at the time if he had weighed any other cars but the numbers were kinda varying. He had everything from stripped out (I mean STRIPPED) out R32gtst's weighing 1200kg, and things like R33/34 GTR's weighing 1900KG.

Of course, no R34 GTT stock sedans. The BMW seats I have (and their adaptors) are also heavy. I was just curious as to how much the weight difference is, but obviously not curious enough to test the car before and after. It does appear to have moved a little bit of that weight back so, yay? Or perhaps thats just a 34 thing.

  • Like 1

Bloody jinxed it. Decided to drive the skyline to work today. On the way home some bloke in a commo was giving me the thumbs up so decided to do an antilag launch. The car took off hard, then made a funny noise and sounded like a vacuum cleaner. 

I was meant to go get a hair cut but skipped out on that and went home to investigate. 

 

This is what was found, f**k. 

 

 

IMG_20221209_175052.thumb.jpg.e2546c5e992eaa35493232efde5554ab.jpg

 

IMG_20221209_175106.thumb.jpg.07c0e193a5f70e51dc18dc4921c67434.jpg

My luck seems to have run out. Will be dropping it off to hypergear for a rebuild. 

  • Sad 3
5 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I am sorry, antilag is not part of the 'Sensible 300kw package'.

Lol it is, just too much retard in Bill's case.

Never go full retard, only half retard.

(Single digit ignition retard numbers for next turbo lol).

  • Haha 1

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