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25 minutes ago, admS15 said:

I'm trying to work out exactly what I need so everything is ordered together.

I've come across a problem with arp rod bolts for non neo RB25. No one actually lists them specifically for them. Most say RB26 and NEO 25 but not vanilla. I rang a supplier and they said they won't fit and that SR20 rod bolts are the same as 25 and I should use those and buy 2 packets. I've read elsewhere that the sr ones work but are a couple mm shorter and the nut doesn't fully cover the threads. 

Anyone have a definite arp part number to use for rb25. Arp only lists RB26.

Shit ignore the link

  • Haha 1

As expected, amayama screwed me over. I ordered 4 valves for the head. They where showing stock in hand, turns out they where 1 intake valve short, so they conveniently dropped that from the order and doubled the price on the listing. I now have 3 valves in the post. 

Partsouq was showing stock of 1, I ordered it, let's see how that goes. I've got a funny feeling that they both get from the same supplier and they're won't be any stock. Damn Japanese shitboxes.

On 01/11/2023 at 1:33 PM, GTSBoy said:

You can always throw some Ferreas or similar into just one cylinder. No rule that states you can't.

I did consider this and looked initially, non neo valves are hard to come by for some reason but gettable. I did prefer to have all OEM but one foreign intake is acceptable. It's the exhaust ones that are sodium filled or some such isn't it?

Just got off the phone with Nissan and surprisingly the OEM SR20 bolts are still available. They want $21 each. Nengun lists them at $6 each and $40 express delivery.

Considering the bolts in my motor lasted 27 years and 8 years at 315kw and I was revving it hard when they let go, I may just go OEM again and drop the rev limit a few hundred rpm.

The fsm notes to not remove the bolts from the rod, I wonder if this means that the rod will need to be resized anyway if the bolts are pressed out and in? 

On 01/11/2023 at 5:08 PM, GTSBoy said:

I dunno about you....but me? I'm thinking that if a stock rod bolt let go, then ARP upgrade is the only sensible path forward.

Something about the definition of insanity, etc etc.

Yes I know and agree but they're making it hard for me by not having a specific part number and it's messing with my head, lol.

I was speaking to the engine builders apprentice yesterday and he was telling me I could reuse my existing bolts. Um, 30 year old bolts, yeah nah. 

New ones are on the table as an option. Let's be honest here, I'm doing a bargain basement freshen up, reusing 30 year old pistons and rods, bare minimum machining.

I think there will be very little if any track work in the future, if any. Arp would be nice for peace of mind, will persevere with trying to make that happen.

Yes I am certifiably insane, LoL. Something, something Nissan autism..

  • Haha 1

I put the crank back in yesterday and checked the clearances as is with plastigauge to get an idea of where this engine is at.

 

The spec for mains is 0.028 - 0.046mm with a limit of 0.090mm

 

Across the 7 mains I got numbers ranging from 0.040 - 0.065  number 1 was the worse and that bearing had visual wear, the rest where 0.055 or under. I'm pretty confident, new bearings will bring this back within spec. 

 

I've been told and have read of running these clearances on the looser side. ACL have hx series bearings which are standard size plus 1 thou. Don't know if I should go with these or just stick with standard. I will stick with running a stock oil pump so don't want to run into issues where it can't supply the volume or pressure required. I understand that shimming the pump is a thing for a slight bump in pressure but not sure if enough for extra thou bearings.

 

I managed to also check 1 rod journal on no. 1 before I had to pack up, it measured at 0.030mm right in the middle of spec for rods. That bearing did look real good.

 

What do you guys think, where should I aim for as far as clearances go, bearing in mind it's going to be predominantly street car from now on with the odd track day here or there.

 

I do have access to high quality micrometres and bore gauges from work when needed.  I should be able to measure, I hope. Lol

On 01/11/2023 at 6:40 PM, GTSBoy said:

Don't increase clearances unless you're upgrading the pump. "Stock" clearances at the wider end of stock range is about as far as you should go.

Might just order the standard sized ones. May crack the micrometre out and see if I can remember how to do maths.

I would (do) always get a machine shop to measure crank and bores, choose bearings and gap the rings. (noting, I generally check it when it comes back too). There is just too much to get wrong causing issues later.

Of course, plenty of people slap in bearings and go again in the wide world....but to me these aren't some old hilux and don't get driven as such

On 02/11/2023 at 6:21 AM, Duncan said:

I would (do) always get a machine shop to measure crank and bores, choose bearings and gap the rings. (noting, I generally check it when it comes back too). There is just too much to get wrong causing issues later.

Of course, plenty of people slap in bearings and go again in the wide world....but to me these aren't some old hilux and don't get driven as such

This is what more than likely what will happen once I have all the required other parts

On 02/11/2023 at 8:08 AM, Komdotkom said:

These guys have a fix for the rod bolt issue, it's the only sensible option.

https://www.cp-carrillo.com/pt-3508-rods.html

I'll have a look for those pump gears on the weekend when I'm at the workshop.

Why you do this to me, how about these

Screenshot_20231102-083922-404.thumb.png.d0d77474dbf7fb2c28a40a825043154d.png

10 hours ago, Duncan said:

I would (do) always get a machine shop to measure crank and bores, choose bearings and gap the rings. (noting, I generally check it when it comes back too). There is just too much to get wrong causing issues later.

Of course, plenty of people slap in bearings and go again in the wide world....but to me these aren't some old hilux and don't get driven as such

I agree, Skylines are treated way nicer than the apprentice driving the work Hilux around.

 

Only thing quicker than a company car is a rental car! :P

Always check after machine Shop. 

 

That's how I found 2x oval big ends and they realised they stuffed up.

 

It kept measuring out of round and I had to conclude I was actually right, and I was.

 

 

Edited by No Crust Racing
9 hours ago, admS15 said:

This is what more than likely what will happen once I have all the required other parts

Why you do this to me, how about these

Screenshot_20231102-083922-404.thumb.png.d0d77474dbf7fb2c28a40a825043154d.png

Nah, alloy rods are NFG - they life out pretty quickly.

$200 for rod bolts, $30 each to have them resized = $400

Forged rods = $850

Is another rod based engine failure worth $450 to you? Yes, I'm conveniently ignoring that you may have to resize the forged rods but the Carillo's I've used in the past have always been mint (but not $850)

It's logic like this which has lead me to the worlds most expensive RB20

  • Haha 1

A little good news today with the valves. Partsouq has shipped the 1 intake I ordered the other day and amayama has the other 3 at their warehouse and will ship soon. Unfortunately I think shipping is by actual ship as they've stated delivery mid December. Partsouq will be here next week. 

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