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Bills 33 Gtst Streeter/track Car


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What the f**k do boat people know about safety? They are the very worst decision makers in the world!

Also, a webbing strap like that is loaded in as close to ideal fashion as possible (excusing the stupid jerk who gives it a stupid jerk when he lets the belt out while the boat is still otherwise restrained from moving, then releases that when he realises what he's done). Nice flat spool of belt, no sharp edges to work against, etc etc.

I mean, who am I to lecture anyone about functional safety?

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I hope you are talking about recreational boaters, specifically yacht masters?

I did 27 years in Marine Search & Rescue, and No we are not poor decision makers, my proof is;

I never lost or had anyone injured including crew/dive team and persons in distress when death was a very real one step away.  I hope you or anyone else has never had to make those type of decisions mate.

but I understand and respect your points

 

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1 minute ago, Watermouse said:

recreational boaters, specifically yacht masters?

Them, and beer bogans with 175HP outboards, fishing rods, massive jacked up Navaras/70series/'Lux/'Cruiser/etc, and 5 ritalin infused scrotes on inflatable rings doing stupid water circle work just outside the swimming zones of public beaches.

Almost all the aluminium production of Queensland goes into replacement tinnies for all the stupidity fuelled destruction and sinking of the existing stock in crocodile infested waters up north.

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Hit it hard last night, was in the shed till 2:30am. Had to get everything ready to try fit engine today as neighbour is going away tomorrow.

This happenned today 

IMG_20231205_113804415.thumb.jpg.bec20825c4613be112816cef5d63189a.jpg

 

IMG_20231205_113813536_HDR.thumb.jpg.257f34c544a2c586cfdc8d081a2b0560.jpg

 

IMG_20231205_152233673.thumb.jpg.abeca16de0d33049eae345d22d6a2358.jpg

Was going smoothly, till it wasn't. Had to lower the sway bar, remove engine mounts to get the engine to its spot and then refit everything. Head drain also created some clearance issues but got there in the end. Some idiot put the drain return on the sump virtually where the engine mount is. Hose fits on but is less than ideal, going to have to revisit it and fit a 90° fitting.

Had some hiccups last night too with getting the flywheel and gearbox on. Firstly forgot the sandwich plate, so had to remove clutch and flywheel again. Then gearbox went on smoothly but then realised new block has an alignment dowel in the same spot as gearbox. GB off again to remove said dowel. Cnut.

Anyway, it's in now. AC and PS pumps refitted, tail shaft bolted up as well.

Left to do is reconnect all harnesses and plugs. Looks like a big mess ATM. Fit dump pipe, radiator, shifter, intake piping and associated bits, air box fill, afluids and hopefully fire it up.

Looks like couriers please has lost my break in oil again. Useless pricks. Looks like I'll just get whatever mineral oil is on special at super shit auto.

Hopefully it will actually run after all this or I'm going to burn it, lol.

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7 hours ago, admS15 said:

Hopefully it will actually run after all this or I'm going to burn it, lol.

Mega effort mate well done. 

If it makes you feel better...

- My new front and rear mains leaked immediately, meaning I had to redo timing again and remove gearbox to replace. 
- When testing the rear main ws good I had the selector cables off the box (box in neutral, no drive shafts in) but there was enough vibration for it try and grab a gear at idle speeds and it spat the diff shims out, so box had to come out again...

There's always "something". 

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Solid effort, all of that would have taken me at least a year to do lol.

Put out your offerings to all the 17x gods today, light up candles, incense, burn paper money, whatever you need to do before starting up the car.

This is what IT teams around the nation do before they all go on leave.

q419a14nxlp71.thumb.jpg.a99fc665d346b617e59ceae75f786650.jpg

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Here I came to add to the shit fight of seat belts vs slings vs other shit... And I find I'm too late and it's in!

 

But my view: I never trust seat belts, as the only ones I've ever had around look like manky shit that I wouldn't trust to hold a head, let alone an engine and box.

 

Those levellers are great, if you know the angle you need before you're trying to get it in. Otherwise, all the ones I've used turn out to be useless, as either handle hits engine, OR the handle/slide bit unbolts itself, OR, there ends up being too much load for the thread to move.

 

My go to is normally chain to front, a chain to rear. Then I add a ratchet strap normally on the front only.

This lets me have adjustment to lift the front, and if the ratchet mechanism fails, I still have a chain on the rear under full tension, and chain on front (which could break from a big drop). If there's huge slack appearing in front chain that I'm worried if shit fails it could snap chain then I'll normally add another temporary tight strap, and then shorten the chain up, then remove said temporary part.

 

Most of the time my engine in/out is all one manned, so I don't like taking risks with heavy as f**k swinging objects being high up, and me moving around them. 

My theory is:

First up, I don't want to be crushed. 

Secondly, I don't need to drop an engine on the sump, and potentially smash the crank or oil pickup into shit.

Lastly, try to avoid vehicle damage if shit comes loose.

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Ok gents I'm kind of stuck and google is failing me plus I didn't take pics.

Alternator wiring. I have the plug in and the obvious white/red wires bolted on. There is 1 smallish black wire but 2 posts it can be mounted on. Who knows what's going on here?

Starter motor, where does the negative power cable go to? Is it block or chassis?

 

Help, lol

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Starter motor has big (unfused) pos from the battery and small start 12v from the key to the solenoid

Alternator should have a plug, plus a large stud that goes to battery 12v and a small earth that goes onto the alternator body. Models vary a little so hard to be more specific, generally the pos stud is M6 (10mm nut) and the earth is M5 (8mm head bolt). Put the Pos stud on the earth spot and you'll get good sparks

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Thanks gents, I think I worked it out but this is what I was talking about.

IMG_20231206_180550892.thumb.jpg.24861f96771c52f4f101aa80196dbe34.jpg

There is 2 spots with an 8mm headed bolt. Ive put the ground wire in 1. Not sure if it's the correct one or if it matters. I think the other hole is for the P clamp that is on that little alternator loom. Anyway, if I don't get charge I'll swap the wires around.

I connected the battery at one stage and the starter motor started going on its own, wasn't engaging the flywheel, just free spinning. Turns out, I had the starter positive on the wrong terminal. Swapped around and all was well, connected battery, turned key to acc and everything behaved as it should, also gave it a quick crank and starter was all good too.

It's around 95% done. Got to finish tensioning the p/s belt, install coil packs, shifter, fill fluids and check for leaks. Need to clean underneath the car too, still a lot of oil from the blow up (free rustproofing). Need to also swap the street wheels and brake pads back on and standard seat too. 

 

 

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