Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone. I'm having a tough time making a decision on some parts for my R32's build and was hoping for some guidance. My Nismo R32 decided to develop engine trouble a couple of months ago and I was able to pick up a new Nismo RB26 Fine Spec Final Edition longblock to replace the old tired mill. I'm now in the process of accumulating appropriate supporting parts for it. My ultimate goal is to have a reliable setup with a bit more power. I'm not aiming for a lot of added oomph - I'd be overjoyed if I could have 500 crank hp but my foremost priority is reliability so I was pondering what to do about the oil pump.

The Fine Spec comes with a Nismo oil baffle but the oil pump is just an N1. From my research the N1 is only slightly better than the stock pump - just upping the oil pressure a bit more but flow is the same. People kept telling me to get a Tomei and although the price had me balking at first I eventually thought I'd bite the bullet to ensure as much reliability as possible. But then further reading online has me seeing people saying the Tomei is not a foolproof solution because you can run the sump dry if you don't have a higher capacity one. I don't have plans to upgrade the sump at this time.

This car will mainly be a weekend driver/show car. I might take it to the track once or twice just to give it a go but that'll be it since I have other cars for regular track duty. So I'm left with the dilemma - while the engine is still out should I upgrade the oil pump to a Tomei knowing that's supposed to be the best out there? Should I leave it alone knowing it'll mainly be driven on the street with only the occasional spirited driving? Or should I adopt a middle solution and maybe get a Nismo oil pump that is slightly higher flow than the N1 and with stronger gears for less money (but not as high flow or as strong gears as the Tomei)?

Thanks in advance for your help.

If you are worried about the pump then put reimax gears in it, that will be more than enough.

If you want to properly address the oil control issues of your motor then I suggest you start reading the 100's of pages in the rb oil control thread.

Tomei oil pump, 1.2mm oil restrictor, increased capacity sump and a oil breather fitting on the sump above oil level.

This is assuming you have a long nose collar (or a 33/34 crank) fitted already.....if you dont, watch out whatever pump you fit.

  • Like 1

I should think it would be fine with the factory fitted N1 pump. There was a time when some N1 pumps failed. It could be because there were some knock offs on the market for a while but my N1 pump has been fine (although I don't limiter bash).

  • Like 1

If you are worried about the pump then put reimax gears in it, that will be more than enough.

If you want to properly address the oil control issues of your motor then I suggest you start reading the 100's of pages in the rb oil control thread.

Thanks for the input. I've been reading a lot of stuff on the RB's oiling issues already and that's why I was undecided since most of the stuff that's written seems focused on cars expected to see heavy use - not a car like mine that will be mostly street driven and rarely see a track. After talking to a guy with a lot of RB experience including crew chief on an N1-spec race car and has tried the different solutions out there including the Tomei I'm probably going to go with the Nismo oil pump - it's better than the N1 but not overkill for my needs.

Tomei oil pump, 1.2mm oil restrictor, increased capacity sump and a oil breather fitting on the sump above oil level.

This is assuming you have a long nose collar (or a 33/34 crank) fitted already.....if you dont, watch out whatever pump you fit.

As I said, the motor I have is a Nismo Fine Spec so it already has a later-spec crank and tighter oil restrictors. My main question was whether the Tomei pump would be okay to use without going to an increased capacity sump.

I should think it would be fine with the factory fitted N1 pump. There was a time when some N1 pumps failed. It could be because there were some knock offs on the market for a while but my N1 pump has been fine (although I don't limiter bash).

Thanks for the input. Limiter bashing and heavy use seem to be the main reason for pump failures from what I keep reading. Although the N1 pump is probably okay for the low-stress use I plan for my car, the expert I consulted recommended at least going with Reimax gears in the N1 pump for more insurance. I'll probably go with a Nismo pump though since it's not too much more after factoring in labor to do the gear swap and reinstall.

Seen this time and time again.

Stop wasting your time go Tomei pump and spend $500 or less to get the sump extended.

End of all your worries/questioning the setup.

Do not forget any engine that gets limiter bashed can fail - its a fools activity.

Edited by Stixbnr32
  • Like 1

Seen this time and time again.

Stop wasting your time go Tomei pump and spend $500 or less to get the sump extended.

End of all your worries/questioning the setup.

Do not forget any engine that gets limiter bashed can fail - its a fools activity.

I'm in the US, not Oz so AFAIK there is no way to get an extended sump for that cheap around here. Cheapest option I've seen is the Trust extension kit but that's 400 bucks plus welding and the design looks bad for a street car since it hangs so low and the drain plug sticks out. If you have a good option for where to get the sump extended that won't cost an arm, a leg, and my left testicle I'm happy to hear it.

I wouldn't dream of running any high volume oil pump without a larger sump and smaller restrictor.

If your planning to run the engine at lowish RPM's and small short highish RPM's on the rare occasion your fine as you are.

Personally i cannot fathom why someone would question a higher capacity oil sump when knowing the oiling issues RB's have and cost of a rebuild, especially while the engine is still out......

^ agreed. You wanna go Tomei pump, you wanna go a baffled/extended sump. Not just a tomei sump baffle like some think (band aid), but a full/proper sump upgrade.

You suck it dry, which is highly likely with a Tomei pump even with restrictors, depending on how it's been put together and the PCV etc... They you've just lunched a motor.

Different story if playing with N1 pumps/gears. Could get away with just baffling and overfilling by 1L

I have an N1 pump with baffled stock sump, 2 x 1.0mm restrictors and sump breathers making 420awhp and 7000 revs.

However if you decide on a Tomei pump it can empty your sump and quite a few Racefab sumps have found their way to the US. All the info is on the website:

http://racefab.co.nz/sumps.html

The price is half that of a Tomei pump and a small fraction of the cost of a rebuild.

How much was that motor? How much is the sump extension?

The motor was an arm, a leg, and my right testicle which is why I'd like not to lose my left one for a sump because I might still need it for the good of the species. As for the sump extension, I dunno how much, they aren't readily available here in the US like I said and everyone seems to keep banging on about getting one but don't offer concrete info on a good place to get one.

I wouldn't dream of running any high volume oil pump without a larger sump and smaller restrictor.

If your planning to run the engine at lowish RPM's and small short highish RPM's on the rare occasion your fine as you are.

Personally i cannot fathom why someone would question a higher capacity oil sump when knowing the oiling issues RB's have and cost of a rebuild, especially while the engine is still out......

I never said I questioned the virtues of a high capacity oil sump. The problem is availability here in the US as I've pointed out but seems to be repeatedly ignored.

^ agreed. You wanna go Tomei pump, you wanna go a baffled/extended sump. Not just a tomei sump baffle like some think (band aid), but a full/proper sump upgrade.

You suck it dry, which is highly likely with a Tomei pump even with restrictors, depending on how it's been put together and the PCV etc... They you've just lunched a motor.

Different story if playing with N1 pumps/gears. Could get away with just baffling and overfilling by 1L

Thank you for actually responding to my main question. That's why I'm looking at the Nismo pump versus the Tomei. However if someone could get around to pointing out a cost-effective sump extension solution then that could be a different story.

I have an N1 pump with baffled stock sump, 2 x 1.0mm restrictors and sump breathers making 420awhp and 7000 revs.

However if you decide on a Tomei pump it can empty your sump and quite a few Racefab sumps have found their way to the US. All the info is on the website:

http://racefab.co.nz/sumps.html

The price is half that of a Tomei pump and a small fraction of the cost of a rebuild.

THANK YOU! Finally, someone gave me a lead to where I can possibly get a sump extension instead of just assuming here in good old Obamaland I can just ask the bum on the street corner what he uses for his personal race car. Much obliged, I've got an email in to Racefab now! :cheers:

  • 3 weeks later...

I have an N1 pump with baffled stock sump, 2 x 1.0mm restrictors and sump breathers making 420awhp and 7000 revs.

However if you decide on a Tomei pump it can empty your sump and quite a few Racefab sumps have found their way to the US. All the info is on the website:

http://racefab.co.nz/sumps.html

The price is half that of a Tomei pump and a small fraction of the cost of a rebuild.

Just wanted to update this thread and say thanks to KiwiRS4T for being so helpful. I got in touch with Racefab and will be ordering an extended sump from them so I can run the Tomei pump.

  • Like 1

People probably got a little confused - you keep saying sump extension. That usually means the shitty Trust one

http://millennium-motorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=266_1_101_130_132&products_id=82

Which isn't really a proper high volume extended/baffled sump at all.

PLENTY of places make high volume/baffle jobs

High Octane

Racepace Motorsport

Racefab (as you've seen)

There are LOADS of places you could purchase from :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
    • BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
×
×
  • Create New...