Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys had an issue since I bought the car, finally getting around to fixing all the niggling things.

I can open the boot with the key.

I can pull the lever and someone else open the boot/ wedge something under the lever.

I just need the boot to pop up a little bit so the latch doesn't go back in.

Is there any sort of adjustment to the boot spring or anything.

I've tried searching for some info but can't find much, mostly just the valet latch issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460721-r32-gtr-boot-release-issue/
Share on other sites

Weight of the wing. :/

They don't pop up too well at the best of times.

Worse over age.

A few solutions. Wingless, a CF painted wing, a 34 wing

Increase the height of the 2 rubber bung thingys and just force it closed. (so it pops up a bit more and doesn't relatch itself.

Could try some method of strengthened bars at the very back of the boot.

Ps. never put your head in when you look for something and let go of the boot

Edited by Sinista32

So I got it to just pop a bee's dick. But it works.

I adjusted the latch on the boot lid all the way up and the striker in the bottom all the way down.

There isn't any adjustment on the rubber stoppers but I might try and get slightly longer ones will give it a bit more spring.thanks for the suggestions sinister

  • Like 1

no worries, comes from experience.

I did what you described way back when.

Since then

I have a 34 wing on my 32 now, looks great and works a treat.

also a wingless boot that jets up so quick I have pull the release -dive towards the back to put my hand out to stop it. lol

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh... literally every time i jump on a forum, see an instagram post or see an engine bay at a car show, i get an idea and add it to my 'to do' list. So what started off as, hey can u just make a couple of intake hard pipes because my dumbass bought the wrong apexi kit, blew out into a 2 week job including braided brake lines & custom bash kit for the front lip haha.  Getting Luke from A4E engineering to make a full custom exhaust with a controllable aes dump valve so i can actually switch between quiet and loud, because right now its just loud all day every day. Then after that go and get the tune redone flex e85 & 98 as i get bugger all milage from e85, makes going for longer drivers difficult
    • Car looks clean as. You ended up getting quite a bit done 馃槀  So what's the plan for the exhaust? 
    • The only Neo rods that were any different to any other RB25 rods were the DET ones, and they were the same as RB26. Here is a Neo DET rod. O5U part number visible. Here is a post in a thread here on SAU with evidence from someone who has done this before. There are photos in the thread of normal RB25 rods.  
    • Sure, but why assume that will be the case forever? And why assume you'll be able to do an oil change to swap back to a stock drain bolt before that happens? And does it even matter when I change the oil at fairly short intervals? Life can be funny sometimes and unexpected things can happen. Like breaking a collarbone so you can't do any work on your car for a few months but the oil change is due so you have to take it to somewhere and hope they don't do something stupid like stacking the new drain plug washer on top of the old one.
    • Do u know how to identify the rods are rb25 or neo ones? Can u look into the pics and tell me is they de or de neo ones. Its confusing becoz my motor has de neo head but block is 25de 75t, so really confusing me about rods, crank.
  • Create New...