Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My newly acquired car has a vented catch can that is unfiltered and leaks oil from the breather unsurprisingly.

At the moment both rockers are plumbed together then into the can, the can has only a single outlet which is going to atmo at the moment. I haven't checked PCV as yet but given what I can see in this pic, I assume blocked.

post-23873-0-26009200-1446606289_thumb.jpg

I was going to re-attach the atmo connection back to the turbo intake after confirming/fixing the catch can baffling.

That got me reading.

- Do cam baffles work? The Hi Octane one's look cheap if they help. Used on conjunction with the previously mentioned can plumbed back to intake and baffled.

- Hi octane list a separator and a catch can - with a sump drain which I won't be doing. Are both needed on a street car if you have the cam baffles?

- Is something like a GZ Vacuum pump going to better than all of this anyway?
- Plan is for your basic -9 setup so not huge power and only on the street as I have a track car so does any of this really matter besides making it legal again (plumbing to intake).

Cheers

Read this if you haven't already.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345545-oil-catch-canpcv-setups/

Get this catch can

http://justjap.com/jjr-autech-type-oil-catch-tank-nissan-rb26dett.html

Cam baffles are debatable.

If you want to do some more reading look up fatz version 70 gazillion for his catch can setup.

Anything concrete on cam baffles?

From a guy who installed them (not me) they have a small positive effect - not enough to fix major problems.

If you don't spend a lot of time at WOT I would just run the catch can outlet to the turbo inlet but if you get an unacceptable of amount of oil in the line add an air/oil seperator in that line.

Wish it came in black, nothing paint can't fix.

Would allow me to ditch current catch can setup and use that space for oil filter relocation.

Anything concrete on cam baffles?

get it powdercoated .. best thing i did was get all my stuff powdercoated, not very expensive, looks good and 3 x as tough as paint

Edited by bcozican

Not very expensive vs a can of primer and a can of satin black from bunnings?

I wouldn't mind having the twin turbo pipe done also. Want the bay to be mostly black/stealth.

Wonder what the arc box would look like black.

- Do cam baffles work? The Hi Octane one's look cheap if they help. Used on conjunction with the previously mentioned can plumbed back to intake and baffled.

- Hi octane list a separator and a catch can - with a sump drain which I won't be doing. Are both needed on a street car if you have the cam baffles?

- Is something like a GZ Vacuum pump going to better than all of this anyway?

- Plan is for your basic -9 setup so not huge power and only on the street as I have a track car so does any of this really matter besides making it legal again (plumbing to intake).

1. No, not really. They don't add much.

2. If you don't have a sump drain you have to drain the catch can itself which is annoying. The separator doesn't need draining which makes it easier.

3. Probably but the merits of all this stuff are debatable.

4. The problem comes about with long periods at full throttle and full revs with cornering forces thrown into the mix. Not something you should be doing on the road.

A small amount of blow by will carry a small amount of oil out of the breather of the catch can. Which makes a large amount of mess.

The alternative is to scavenge it through the turbo suction (This is what Nissan does) which puts it back through the inlet system. You get oil in your inlet this way but it needs to quite a bit to be a problem.

At the end of the day if you are happy with the Hi Octane separator I would run that. If it helps I have one at home I no longer want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...