Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I just did the belts on the stagea and low and behold whilst flashing the light about I see some bare wires.

I'm assuming it's the knock sensor , it's a two wire plug between the v under the intake. Can be seen from the front in the opening between the heads. One wire is bare other looks to be cut. (Looks like mice got to it :-/)

Car does not ping.

So my question is. Does the intake have to go in order to get to it and fix the wiring ? If so should I just do the rocker cover gaskets(passenger side weeps only just) and plugs 143xxxkm. Or am I going beyond what's needed to get to the knock sensor.

Car goes beautifully just last weekend did 1000km round trip and got 720km out of a tank (ultimate ) with no hesitation what so ever even snapped the speedo on a overtake.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Edited by malialipali

Surprisingly common, I have had to repair a few. I should have a spare knock/injector loom here somewhere if you can't find something local.

Yes the lower plenum needs to come off to replace it.

Nice and warm Dale, for many hours. Smart little f*krs would just nest it out with rags and grass, anything they can find to make a cosy and protected home.

As soon as the door unlocked they would know to scurry away.

Surprisingly common, I have had to repair a few. I should have a spare knock/injector loom here somewhere if you can't find something local.

Yes the lower plenum needs to come off to replace it.

Is the wiring shielded? If not I can repair the plug thats not an issue. If it is shielded then yes I would need the part.

Is there a part # ? Same as the VQ35s? by any chance. Is this the guy I'm looking for https://www.z1motorsports.com/oxygen-and-knock-sensors/z1-motorsports/350z-g35-vq35de-knock-sensor-sub-harness-p-5833.html?osCsid=keol7gu21kictn9cop24pqrhb4

If I cant find anything by end of tomorrow, I'm happy to pay what it cost + express bag postage Scotty.

OK just did a quick google (currently at work so cant dedicate too much time) looks like 50ohm RG58U coax on the positive side. 99% confident I can repair it. So will give it a crack to repair the wire.

If the car ends up off the road for a few days so be it - ive got a spare.

Cheeky little feckers they are...

I was actually joking when I said looks like mice got to it o.O , now I find that this is actually true and common. WTH!

May as well dot the plugs since I'm gonna spend next Saturday over an engine bay.

Anything else I should to preventative wise. Not fussed on $ , I'm driving the car to Adelaide next month and need to make sure its healthy.

Thanks a bunch on the help All .

Edited by malialipali

You had better get it apart and see what's broken first, you may need the knock sensor too.

Yes, that loom looks similar, on ours it's wired into the injector harness, but you can simply run that one in addition to replace the chewed out part.

  • Like 1

So spent most of the day (38C here today) over the engine bay listening to tunes and drinking beer.

Stripped the intake off, rigged up a hose to my wet and dry vac and vacuumed up sand/ grit, dirt 2 snail shells ??????? (where the hell do they come from) from around the intake before taking it apart.

Cleaned the intake sections with carb cleaner . Got the harness out and assesed. Looked like shit!. stripped it back de-pinned the connector. Soldered in new leads. Coax wire was perfect fit. Soldered the pins and reassembled the connector.

Knock sensor tested at 562K Ohm (well within the range). With the harness it tested at 559K Ohm still in range.

Did the spark plugs at the same time, who ever did the car last should be slapped !!! had Champion Platinums in there with a 14 (NGK4) heat range .... way too hot , guess they whacked in 350 plugs, electrodes were worn to heck too probably 1.4-1.5mm gap. Got some LFR6AIX.

Put it all together and the moment of truth, fired up first go. Went for a test run , Significant improvement on take off, tried stalling it up and lit up the rears ! never happened before.

I think I just thought these cars were good at WOT and sluggish otherwise......... proven wrong now. Very very happy with the improvement.

Thank you all for your help , Esp Scotty for telling me the whole intake needs to come out.

Total cost $123.70 including the plugs (had to buy the coax and I ran out of heatshrink)

Edited by malialipali
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh and I lost my headlight washer jet cover!
    • Ok, so I got myself some X1 wheels really cheap to try out, they're a bit different and I like them but they're really narrow (18x8) they are available in staggered 18x8/9 also but really hard to find.  I kinda dig them, but not as much as the F10 19's I usually run, so these go into the wheel pile.   As I mentioned in another thread, I got a new exhaust. It's an off-the-shelf stainless one that fits OH-KAY. I don't love the tips size and how far they come out the back, I think I might cut the tips off and replace with some smaller (~3") ones that don't extend as far. It sounds really good though, I'm not sure if its just in my head but the car feels a little quicker, more responsive.    I fitted an eBay special front lip. Surprisingly it fit perfectly and all holes lined up. Its a little rickety but I haven't put any double sided tape on yet, I want to clean the front bar up where it has scraped the road a lot and fil in the number plate holes (or, get body coloured wrap to cover them - is this a thing?  I'm not sure if I'll leave it gloss or pain it matte. I really like it though, I don't particularly like the front bar without it, I don't really like the M-Sport and to get anything else is just too expensive. That said, I might need a new one now anyway as I dropped the car onto the jack after forgetting to put ramps under the front wheels. It bent a lot and while it did go back to normal after I got the car off the jack, I do fear I have not done it any favours.   Lastly, my headlights died. Different problems in each. They have gotten much dimmer over the past year or so, I put new (uber expensive) OSRAM bulbs in them but to no avail. One of them pointed at the ground and the other just kinda did its own thing with light working sometimes. Yeah, check this 18 year old BMW headlight wire. I reckon I know why they were stuffed.       BTW, the yellow and black is the power to the Xenons. Yikes. I hunted around an researched my options here. I would have loved to just get a replacement harness but not a thing. My car has adaptive headlights, that is they rotate left and right with the steering wheel. Good condition used adaptive xenons were over $700 each, non adaptive were around $400 each, but I couldn't help but think that they're all around 18 years old now, surely they'd have the same problems. So I looked at newer LCI headlights but they were even more expensive and I couldn't confirm that they'd be plug and play with lots of people having lots of opinions so not worth the risk.  I ended up getting brand new Chinese headlights from MARS. They're very close to OEM with only the angel eyes being a bit different. I didnt want crazy turn signals or sharp DRL's or anything. Not my bag.  They're not adaptive, I thought thats a feature I wouldn't really miss. So I coded that out.  The lights are awesome, they look so nice and they take so many years off the car. The angel eyes look great and the headlight brightness is ridiculous. I was so used to the old ones, I didn't realise just how bad they were. The new ones use the OEM bulbs, Xenon ballast and leveller motor which I was happier with. The only issue with them is that the rear cover is held on by SEVEN screws. This will be a nightmare to get to and open when I need to change bulbs.  
    • Now that you mention it I can see those too. More subtle. The lighting and low resolution makes it hard to assess super well what's going on but what is visible is bad enough to pull the motor.
    • I feel like this is due an update
    • Yeah, I wasn't giving two f**ks for the ring running around the bore. I was looking at the vertical scratches running up and down across the hatch marks.
×
×
  • Create New...