Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I Have converted my gq nissan patrol to a c34 series 2 auto stagea motor, it fires up and idles like a dream but as soon as any throttle is applied it coughs and splutters and barely gains any rpm

I believe it could have something to do with the throttle control unit not being used so any wiring guru's that could shed some light on what could be happening

factory MAP sensor installed? Plumbed in BEFORE the throttle body? (ie between the intercooler and the throttle body)

The factory Neo ECU uses pre-TB MAP for transient response. If you don't have it connected up right it will be a dog on blipping the throttle but if you blip and hold for about 3 seconds then it will sort itself out and rev freely again (ie, it switches back to the airflow meter).

  • Like 1

I had another read of the engine manaul and found that if the tps is open/shorted across the power circuit, the motor will use the base idle tune and not inject any extra fuel when accelerating, my exact symptoms, so I checked and boom, the earth was not connected, so now I'm thinking that the ecu's tps code needs to be cleared as I've tried to start it with the tps hooked up properly and the same thing happens,

My new question is about the scan tool, it appears nissan consult protocol is used with the c34, will I be able to use a newer OBDII scan tool to clear this/any codes?

I had another read of the engine manaul and found that if the tps is open/shorted across the power circuit, the motor will use the base idle tune and not inject any extra fuel when accelerating, my exact symptoms, so I checked and boom, the earth was not connected, so now I'm thinking that the ecu's tps code needs to be cleared as I've tried to start it with the tps hooked up properly and the same thing happens,

My new question is about the scan tool, it appears nissan consult protocol is used with the c34, will I be able to use a newer OBDII scan tool to clear this/any codes?

No only the proper consult will work.

Have you tried resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery for a while?

Ok so the scan tool diddnt support the ecu protocol:'( so I had to wire pin 17 ( malfunction indicator lamp) to the patrols glow plug fault light and use the paper lip method,

It pulled codes 12(MAF signal wire), 21(ignition switch signal), 26 (turbo pressure sensor signal wire) and 44(TCS/ABS communication line)

I worked out the issue with the maf sensor and ignition signal so now the computer is only throwing codes 26 and 44 now after a clearing or fault codes and a restart, and engine is revving more happily but still coughing

So now the question is about the remaining fault codes 26 and 44,

If code 44 isn't going to throw the check engine light (as according to the service manaul) should I not worry about this fault code?, or should I fake the ecu input of around 2.0volts to the communication line (pin 79) to trick the ecu into thinking everything's all good?

Code 26 pulls the check engine light, is it worth getting the turbo pressure sensor and connecting it up or just fake the inputs too?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Do the following first and get back to us. - Clean and verify your IACV - Verify for vacuum leaks/post MAF leaks. (Pressure test is the best and cheapest way) - Do you have a BOV with stock ecu/MAF? If so, remove it.     
    • Hey all, The skyline I have is stalling when the engine is at normal operating temp.  When starting it while it is cold, it'll run just fine.  I have replaced the battery (bad cell), I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and clean the MAF sensor.  Any other suggestions?
    • Thanks for all the information on this.  I tried ordering the parts from Amayama website and all 3 Solenoids are discontinued and not available.  Does anyone have any other websites to suggest that I could find the parts?   Separate issue-- I will start a new thread, but basically the vehicle is stalling when warmed up.
    • It's unfortunate what Tomei USA has done to Tomei's name in general. I'm very weary of ordering parts from them now. I only order direct from a Japanse source (e.g Nengun). At least their logos are different, so you end up knowing what you have. 
    • Update Issues 5 (plus #4) - 10 After making a claim about issue #4's missing part, DeAgostini Japan sent a whole new issue #4 and it arrived about 2 weeks after that. That was back in early March. It took another 4 weeks to receive issues 5 - 13 though. This update is for issues 5 - 10. Ove the 5 issues the front left suspension and most of the engine have been completed. The quality of the castings and fit of the parts is quite good, it seems better than DeAgostini's BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the Fast & Furious 2 movie, which (to me anyway) doesn't seem to have as tight tolerances or quite as accurate castings.  Each issue has a lot of info about the 1989 - 1993 Skyline range and other Nissan models from that era, but the focus is on the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo and the various racing it did in Japan, Europe (Spa 24hrs) and of course Australia. I've included some text translated with Google Lens in some photos and will add to them if there's anything worth including. 
×
×
  • Create New...