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a quick google search for SAU came up with enough info to satisfy your question...

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156988-rd28-diesel-block/#entry2916702

"Simply put there is ZERO advantage over an RB30 bottom end. No stronger, DET cylinder head doesn't bolt straight on, water and oil galleries are different, as is water pump and oil pump etc etc."

more comparable to RB30 block than RB26.

so of course RD28 is a lot cheaper than N1. and cheaper than RB30. with good reason.

Another thought, how many RD28 in NZ and Saudi compared to Australia?

Quite a few in NZ. Was someone building a race engine out of one locally - don't know how it turned out.

The RD block needs a heap of work to make the RB head fit but it can be done.
We are actually doing one in the new year with a 3.2 stroker.

The deck is thicker and so are the bores, it is one heavy f**ker though.
They can also be bought new which is always a good thing.

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The RD block needs a heap of work to make the RB head fit but it can be done.

We are actually doing one in the new year with a 3.2 stroker.

Custom crank and rods or is there a drop in kit available for them?

Did you sleeve the block or did you think the extra wall thickness was enough?

What was the biggest issue having the head join the block?

People go rd28

Because rb30 blocks split

Same with any platform of engine,some people can get them

To hold together better than others.

unless you want a 7 sec car,you probally dont

need one at all

cheers

darren

Pic of split rb30 block? :rolleyes:

you'll be blowing head gaskets before splitting a block and if you're worried about it then grout fill it.

Seriously.

Theres pics of a rb30 split lengthwise pretty much at the base of the tapped holes for the head studs floating around the net.

Grout filling won't stop that!

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