Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol, just the 1? so many split blocks!!

If you chucked that type of money at an engine you would be trying to make it hang together wouldn't you? ;)

Not that op has specified power goals etc. As Darren said you are in 7 sec Territory to worry about it.

Besides the point, given it was probably a $50 block to start off with. The issue is that rare that it shouldn't even be a consideration for choosing between an rb30 compared to the rd28.

OP, there is a guy building up an rd28 block on these forums with a white r33 gts-t. Might be worth digging around and PM'ing him about the costs of machining the block.

Besides the point, given it was probably a $50 block to start off with. The issue is that rare that it shouldn't even be a consideration for choosing between an rb30 compared to the rd28.

OP, there is a guy building up an rd28 block on these forums with a white r33 gts-t. Might be worth digging around and PM'ing him about the costs of machining the block.

The 50 dollar block is hardly the concerns though is it? More money is spent on oil.

Most common split in R30's is around the drivers side engine mount and down the center, bang smack between cyl 3 and 4 where the oil passages run and therefor the weakest part of the block, dont forget the front 4WD diff is there adding twist to that area.

Lots of RB30's also splitting the bores and having hairline cracks from the head studs to the bores too once pushed over 600Kw+ at all 4, much of that is in the tune too, there is only so much they can take reliably.

Grout filling is not so much for block strength but does help somewhat, more so to support the cylinder bores from flexing.

Lol 200..i really take photos of split blocks when i see them..its exciting stuff.

Apart from that if you name names with big workshops it starts a shitfight,that im not getting involved with..

Its a fact..rb30s split bores..always have..always will.my eyes have seen them

Some have more luck than others

Cheers

Darren

  • Like 1

Out of interest to,the other day when i was talking to a guy up the pointy end of the rb field.
He was saying with manuals (2wd/slicks)they soon learned not to declutch the car and rev it and re clutch it... if it bogged in the 60ft as it cracked the blocks...

Edited by jet_r31
  • Like 1

Besides the point, given it was probably a $50 block to start off with. The issue is that rare that it shouldn't even be a consideration for choosing between an rb30 compared to the rd28.

OP, there is a guy building up an rd28 block on these forums with a white r33 gts-t. Might be worth digging around and PM'ing him about the costs of machining the block.

Not in Australia or NZ etc, but determinately in Europe where shipping a rb30 block is prohibitively expensive.

Topspeed in the Ukraine had an RD28 based RB26/30 combo in their 7 second R32 GTR, well at least until they put a VR38 in there LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...