Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have for sale the following used items from my R33 GTR:

Kakimoto.R Stainless Cat-back Exhaust System with Metal Cat $450

Apexi GT Spec Front Pipe $250

Apexi Power Intake Kit $200

OEM Sway Bars $100

Cat, front pipe and pod filters were on the car for less than 8000 km.

All items in good condition.

Local buyers only please. I am located in Madeley WA. Mobile: 0439657815

post-82492-0-66965800-1448099128_thumb.jpg

post-82492-0-45835200-1448099319_thumb.jpg

post-82492-0-68799700-1448099505_thumb.jpg

post-82492-0-74470000-1448099599_thumb.jpg

post-82492-0-33081200-1448099698_thumb.jpg

post-82492-0-48601100-1448099920_thumb.jpg

post-82492-0-94309900-1448100025_thumb.jpg

post-82492-0-61194900-1448100147_thumb.jpg

Hey mate, are you able to have a look in the mid muffler and tell me how restrictive it looks?

Also if it tapers down to smaller than 80mm in any places like the flanges?

Same with the front pipe, is it 70-80 at the inlets and outlets?

Hi mate,

Took the below measurements.

Main muffler portion inlet: at least 85mm

Mid muffler portion inlet: have not measured as cat still attached

Mid muffler portion outlet: at least 85mm

Front pipe inlets: at least 70mm

Front pipe outlets: at least 75mm

Diameters may actually be larger depending from were you measure from, but I measured purely the open area so might be a bit conservative. Hope that helps.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
×
×
  • Create New...