Brake Kit Options R33 Brembo Ap R35

[sixmassive]

Looking to upgrade my Brakes. K-Sport Front, and stock rear.

My K-sports haven't had a hiccup yet, but they are not balanced well with my rear. I've been doing alot more track days, and between my tires getting loose, and the sketchy rear swaying, I've decided to look at upgrades. I am just starting to get into understanding brake balancing, and design, so please forgive my ignorance.

First choice would be to get a decent set of rear brakes (AP or Brembo), and upgrade the fronts at a later date.

Option 2 would be to go to the AP full front and rear.

Option 3 is Brembo GT front and rear

Option 4 is R35

In regards to the AP kits, the larger diameter rotor option is cheaper, and the smaller, but thicker rotor is more expensive. Is this the same kit, just the thicker rotor is more expensive? My obvious reaction would be that the larger diameter has more braking power.

The brembo kits have the same size rotors, but the prices are different. I cant seem to find out why.

In regards to the R35, how would the above compare?

And other than the price of the brackets, why hasn't it become more popular on R32-33-34?

thanks!

[KiwiRS4T]

K Sports (D2 in my case) are fine for the track. Just get something better than stock for the rears. What kind of car have you got and what brakes are on the rear? How many KW do you have or plan to have in the near future?

[GTRPSI]

A thicker rotor can absorb a larger volume of heat, where as a thinner rotor will heat up quicker.

Its the mass of the rotor that gives it the ability to absorb heat, obviously this is dissipated on the straights via air cooling.

Yep diameter adds leverage, in much the same way as it can effect brake balance.

Personally, id be studying a known working setup carefully to save yourself the expensive headaches.

Dont forget caliper piston surface areas and master sizes all play a part in how it works......its not a simple task getting it right.

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

[KiwiRS4T]

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

Don't forget E=mc2

or in the case of our cars weight and speed matter so KW is relevant .

My Stagea weighs nearly 1800kg and stopping it lap after lap from 250km/hr was not possible with GTT brakes although they were fine on the road. With D2 front brakes (330mm) and GTR rears with Pagid pads problem solved. I am sure they would be adequate for most Skylines unless exceptionally fast.

[sixmassive]

K Sports (D2 in my case) are fine for the track. Just get something better than stock for the rears. What kind of car have you got and what brakes are on the rear? How many KW do you have or plan to have in the near future?

Bob, I have a GTR33, Single Precision 6466, 544kw to the wheels on E85. So stopping on the street is just as important as stopping on the track. The rears are the stock brembos.

A thicker rotor can absorb a larger volume of heat, where as a thinner rotor will heat up quicker.

Its the mass of the rotor that gives it the ability to absorb heat, obviously this is dissipated on the straights via air cooling.

Yep diameter adds leverage, in much the same way as it can effect brake balance.

Personally, id be studying a known working setup carefully to save yourself the expensive headaches.

Dont forget caliper piston surface areas and master sizes all play a part in how it works......its not a simple task getting it right.

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

Thanks Peter,

I've been searching threads, and most of them have been hijacked or whored out, making it tough to sort out the useful information. My car is full interior, no roll cage, no CF parts to lighten it up.

R35 Brakes are on the Z-Tune Clubman, and seems to work well, but is the second most expensive option (Brembo GT-R series are $$$$).

Edited November 22, 2015 by sixmassive

[sixmassive]

EDIT: the R35 brakes would be CBA, AP Rotors and Mu pads

[KiwiRS4T]

Have you compared Stoptech to AP?

http://www.stoptech.com/

[sixmassive]

I've looked at the stoptech stuff. I haven't ruled them out. I am awaiting a response from them on a kit.

From what I've read online, it seem the consensus is that they are superior to my k-sports, but rank below AP & Brembo.

[lidz]

What about the alcon kits a load of guys were getting from jdl in the UK a while back, was a decent thread on them here. Sounded like a good option so might be worth a search.

[Robzilla32]

Maybe check out the Alpha Omega Racing brake kits.

[sixmassive]

What about the alcon kits a load of guys were getting from jdl in the UK a while back, was a decent thread on them here. Sounded like a good option so might be worth a search.

Sent Alcon a message a bit ago. For Another 200 bucks and i could have a Brembo kit, or save 200 and have an AP kit.

Also send wilwood a message.

Maybe check out the Alpha Omega Racing brake kits.

I saw a thread about them converting evo calipers, but i skimmed over it. I'll give it a closer read in a sec.

[gtr jet]

Would a more aggressive pad in the rear help or a bigger rotor?

[sixmassive]

Checked out the Evo kit. Looks like the rear would definitely improve. The Front though, i don't know how much it would improve. But for how cheap it is, it may be a viable option to at least try.

[GTRPSI]

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

Don't forget E=mc2

or in the case of our cars weight and speed matter so KW is relevant .

My Stagea weighs nearly 1800kg and stopping it lap after lap from 250km/hr was not possible with GTT brakes although they were fine on the road. With D2 front brakes (330mm) and GTR rears with Pagid pads problem solved. I am sure they would be adequate for most Skylines unless exceptionally fast.

Correct but covered my arse with the highlighted part you missed....speed for speed

If the speeds at application are identical, vehicle mass is the issue. (and Visa-versa)

[Roy]

What rotor diam are your k-sport? What exactky is wrong with the current brakes

[sixmassive]

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

[KiwiRS4T]

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

You could get some 330mm for the rear: http://ksportusa.com/b2c/proddetail.php?prod=BKNS170-433SO

Just get some decent pads.

[sixmassive]

Spoke with AP. Their R35 front brake kit will fit the R33, but the hub mounts must be drilled out to 14mm from 12mm. If fitted with their rear kit, he said braking bias will be "Natural"

[gtr jet]

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

I have the same issue with mine and I'm guessing it's because I only have Bendix generals in the rear. I'm going to swap to a more aggressive pad when they're due and see if that helps.

[Roy]

First things first. What shocks and spring rates are you running? What tyres brand and sizes are you running? What wheel alignment are you bashing around the track on? What ride heights front and rear are you running Lastly what pads are you running front and rear?

If you are trying to get a brake setup that ensure the car is settled under big stops then its best to make sure you are looking at the right thing. 7 times out of 10 if you want to shorten braking distances or improve braking stability it will be tyres and suspension.