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DO NOT RUN ANY EBC PADS!!!!! if you like i can cut some planks of wood you could run that would work a tad better. Jus get some DS2500 work horse pads for the rear

What a load of crock.

EBC Yellows, rated to 900 degrees not good enough? Or Reds rated to 650 degrees?

But you recommend a pad that's rated to 500 degrees? Did you know Green stuff is designed for kit cars up to 850Kg and also rated to 500 degrees? So if you ran them in a Skyline, im sure you would know why they didn't work well.....

We run lots of cars on Yellows, no fade issues so far, only issue is finding enough cooling and a rotor that can keep up with them.

LOL, i stated an opinion...

Say what you want about temp ratings. I am not arguing as I have no idea what their temp ratings are. My gripe is I don't like the pedal feel and they require a load of pedal effort. Best analogy is wooden.

My comment "I do loathe EBS green, red and yellow pads. Some like them but i think for track they are actually a rather rubbish performing pad, with poor feel to boot. But they are cheap and perfectly fine i guess for a spirited street car

You say we run lots of cars..do you work at a brake place? Where? Not being a smart ass but have you driven similar cars with different pads to actually compare how they feel and perform with.

What a load of crock.

EBC Yellows, rated to 900 degrees not good enough? Or Reds rated to 650 degrees?

But you recommend a pad that's rated to 500 degrees? Did you know Green stuff is designed for kit cars up to 850Kg and also rated to 500 degrees? So if you ran them in a Skyline, im sure you would know why they didn't work well.....

We run lots of cars on Yellows, no fade issues so far, only issue is finding enough cooling and a rotor that can keep up with them.

I've found temp ratings mean 2/5ths of f**k all in a lot of instances.

Where by you'd think two pads both rated to around the same temp should last around the same length of time - but that is certainly not the case.

Example A might last 4 track days where Example B will be cactus after a single outing... Identical cars.

Now maybe the compound is different etc, but generally I've found if you are destroying pads (basically, disintegrating them) then you're going outside their "temp rating" and hence the breakdown.

Temp rating is fade resistance.

Separate that from lifespan, 2 different things.

Just as you can separate it from the aggressiveness on rotor wear.......

See I've found that to be all over the place too (the fade). Given there are loads of variables in that scenario, cooling etc.

You would think though one pad shouldn't massively wear faster than another in a certain region of performance. I know the A1RM when tracked, get eaten up like butter even on 1300kg cars and they are 780 degree or whatever.

Ah brake pads, such a PIA :D

  • Like 1

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

How low is the car and is your HICAS locked out?
  • 4 weeks later...

Update:

Installed Ferodo DS2500 front pads, Stoptech Rear Rotors & hawk pads. Have not hit the track, or gotten too agressive on them yet. my front right Screaches like hell on a slow stop. But they do bite. I am waiting for a new set of rotors for the front.

Car is not slammed, tires dont tuck. I have the pineapples installed, so the lowered to be geographically correct. HICAS is locked out.

Alignment is -1.1 all around

2500s shouldn't squeal at all, mine didn't when I had the GTR and now in the HSV.

That said, if you put them old rotors, that'll be partly the reason. Make sure you put the anti squeal shims in etc.

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