Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr Non V-spec Rear Diff

Nick_GTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nick_GTR Explorer

Nick_GTR

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

I'm chasing some clarification on the rear diff in a non V-Spec R34 GTR. I've read countless threads and spec sheets which refer to them as a "conventional mechanical diff". Are they supposed to be an LSD or open diff?

My reason for asking is I had the back end of my GTR up on stands earlier in the week, and when I spun one wheel clockwise, the other spun anti-clockwise. To my knowledge, this would suggest it's on open diff? I could have sworn all GTR's are supposed to have a limited slip rear?

I've found a few things wrong/not as advertised with my car lately and it's starting to piss me off....

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461317-r34-gtr-non-v-spec-rear-diff/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Yep a VSpec is not actually as good as the base model GT-R if you intend of changing diffs etc. It'll cost you a pile of time/effort/money... Most of us have found this out the hard way lol.

So don't worry about that little decal on the rear end, it's far more headache than it's worth!

  • Like 1
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Just like me....... good luck with finding one!!

They always come up in bulk.. Nothing for 2-3 months and then BAM - half a dozen selling all at once.

Even talk to someone like Import Monster - where front cuts are coming in, there are rear ends that usually don't get brought in, so they can be sourced

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • joshuaho96
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • Zveruga
      [ACT] Nissan Fuga Y50 VQ35HR 2009

      By Zveruga · Posted

      More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • MBS206
      My BMW 335i

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...