Jump to content
SAU Community

Couldn't Even Go One Day Without An Attempted Theft...


Recommended Posts

Went with my brother to pick up his new car last night - a 1993 R32 GTS4.

Drove it home for him as he's still on his p plates then parked it outside our house in balwyn. Probably one of the safest suburbs in Melbourne to park a skyline.

Left the house this morning and noticed the door was ajar and the radio was on. My heart dropped when I saw the f**ked steering column panels and ignition barrel. Luckily they didn't get past the immobiliser.

It's only a five grand car but I was looking to buy a R32 GTR myself. What's the point of spending my hard earned if dream boats are just going to steal it off me??

...then parked it outside our house...

if history teaches us anything, its that leaving your skyline or evo on the street, in clear view from the street, in a multi-story car park, in your driveway or on a trailer view-able from the street: it's seen as fair game (even if the car doesnt run).

I know not everyone has access to a lock-up garage, but personally I wouldnt buy an import unless I did.

I'm not saying you did anything wrong, but if it is being left on the street its only a matter of time really.

No such thing as a safer suburb to park a Skyline in. They can and have been stolen from everywhere, including secure multi storey carparks in inner city suburbs.

Your logic for Balwyn is backwards - car thieves cruise nice areas because more likely to find valuable cars and less trouble in quiet streets.

Probably safer in a shit suburb. But yeah, it can happen anywhere.

Insurance may not like it but you can leave your key in the ignition barrel so that anyone who breaks in at least doesn't smash the steering column and will quickly find out it has an immobiliser. Even better, get an alarm - most thieves will bugger off if they have to deal with both as opposed to one or the other.

Yeah I take your point. What a shame this is the current state of affairs. I definitely wont be parking a GTR on the street, If I even get one now.

Guess I'll have to booby trap it so it explodes if you try and start it without the immobiliser. That'll learn em.

It's just a f**king car. Make sure it's adequately insured and stop worrying.

Serious?

Even with "adequate imsurance" having a car stolen or attempted is f**king annoying. A replacement car isn't the same, except unless it's a stock as a rock new one.

Serious?

Even with "adequate imsurance" having a car stolen or attempted is f**king annoying. A replacement car isn't the same, except unless it's a stock as a rock new one.

Agreed, just plain annoying. With insurance or without insurance, a car doesn't feel right after a it's been temporarily nicked/been joyridden in. It just doesn't feel the same anymore.

Of course it's f**king annoying, didn't say it wasn't. But the only impenetrable defense against car theft is good insurance.

Absolutey nothing will make you car unstealable. Worrying about it is pointless and futile.

Get good insurance and enjoy your car.

I think he meant that that it's the best way to combat it, if it gets stolen in the first place.

But yes, insurance isn't a barrier from getting your car nicked. A thief wouldn't look at a car and think "f**k, it's insured, would be impossible to take this one"

Wut?

Insurance doesn't defend your car from being stolen.

Jesus, what do I have to do.....

Nothing will defend your car from being stolen. If someone, who knows what they are doing, wants it then there is nothing you can do to stop them.

You can choose to worry about it which would kind of defeat the purpose, or make sure it's insured and accept that what will be will be.

Jesus, what do I have to do.....

Nothing will defend your car from being stolen. If someone, who knows what they are doing, wants it then there is nothing you can do to stop them.

You can choose to worry about it which would kind of defeat the purpose, or make sure it's insured and accept that what will be will be.

Yeah, insurance does give you the peace of mind. Mostly. Until you remember that your car is parked in a generally Bogan-y area.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
  • Create New...