Jump to content
SAU Community

When Are Traction Arms Needed?


Recommended Posts

ok just changed the rear cradle on a s2 rwd auto stagea to the narrower s14 cradle

i have adjustable camber arms in

toe is -15mm on both sides, i need longer toe arms

i was told that when i got adjustable toe arms to also get traction arms

car is not overly low

question is, do i really need to get traction arms?

was going to run a street set up from this:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=317341&view=findpost&p=4301102

ie:

Recommended Road Settings
Front
Caster = 7 degrees positive (slightly more on the LHS to counter the drift to the gutter)
Camber = 1.25 to 1.5 degrees negative
Toe = Zero

Rear
Camber = 0.75 to 1.25 degrees negative
Toe = In 2 mm each side

Link to comment
Share on other sites

traction arms are always needed otherwise your car will crash to the ground. HA. HA.

adjustable ones help with reducing bump steer when you lower the car, so you need them if you have noticed a bump steer problem and want to spend some time on an alignment hoist dialling it out.

or, you could just chuck them in, adjust them to % of stock length based on how much you shortened the camber arm by and feel like it improved things like most people do

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's 'not overly low' more specifically?

If you drop the car from standard heights to anything more decent it's probably lowered an inch or more, and you might want to change the traction arms too. eBay arms are <$100, you'll spend more than that in one proper alignment.

You can definitely run without, I did for years. Putting in adjustable traction arms did help with bump steer a little, however the main culprit turned out to be a busted shock on one side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry haha, was late and I obviously wasn't reading correctly.

I don't know how advantageous it would be running aftermarket traction arms in a street car. Personally I would but if you track it sometimes and are semi-serious about it, then it's probably worthwhile.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on.
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...