Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car came with the HKS oil cooler kit, which includes a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate on the block.

I've just done an oil change and it sucks and is messy so I'd like to add a relocator.

What's the easiest way for me to do this and retain the thermostat control to the cooler core?

I thought about buying a basic relocator and attaching the the block side on top of the existing sandwich plate, any issues with that?

Something like this - http://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-grex-oil-filter-relocation-kit-nissan.html

Edited by ActionDan

Still going to be messy, even if you relocate it.

you need missing pieces from this kit

http://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-oil-cooler-filter-relocation-kit-r32-r33-r34-y33.html

Look at the illustration image to get an idea of what you will need to achieve. Top image shows what you need to do with a sandwich plate, bottom image is without and a inline thermostat instead.

I say just leave it. Surely its not that much of an issue to just degrease in there? unless you will be replacing the filter every month.

You're directly connected to this forum aren't you... it's all just lines of code in your brain... you're everywhere.

Anyway, I know what I need from that kit, but as that would be next to impossible to get (as bits) I considered just getting a generic relocator and bolting on top of sandwich plate.

And to be fair, probably only need one oil change a year, time based rather than Ks, but the mess 0_0

stacking them is completely fine.. I am going to do the same thing (one day) when I am bothered..

below pic is great, shows it fits without hitting naything

15892119_large.jpg

  • Like 1

I'm not back near the car until the weekend, I'll get some pics then.

I've got a relocator on the block, a separate earls thermostat (with pressure and temp senders) and a large cooler where the AC condenser was.

812ta3bDrvL._SL256_.jpg.

Even in a race/rally car it ran too cool at times for me, particularly when driving to events or between stages. And the setup help temps well even on 30klm stages at 40o at Targa High Country last year.

I previously had the filter upside down in front of the sump and the cooler in the PS wheel well but there isn't a lot of room there for a large cooler and I wanted the thermostat, so I redesigned.

I also have a hks cooler kit and i used a greddy relocation, replaced the barb fittings that come with greddy kit and got fittings to allow the hks lines to be used as well

the oil filter is on a simple bracket of right angle 3mm steel (because I hate filter mounts that twist when you try and remove them). countersunk stainless bolts into the filter mount on one side and into 3 thread inserts on the car side. Nice and solid.

the stagea mount is just to give a little clearance between oil lines and the engine, I think most people just do it rb30 style and bolt the relocator straight to the block which also works fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...