Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

None of the climate control buttons (temp up/down, mode, fan, etc) light up when I turn the lights on (a couple of the gauges also don't light, but those globes are easier to find). I am assuming the bulbs are burned out because everything else functions, but being in the US even the Nissan dealer can't tell me what the proper globe part number is to buy replacements.They gave me the part number from a 90 300zx, but it would be a special order without any proof they will be the right size.

If someone can tell me the proper part number for the globes, or possibly a suggestion of what else might cause them all to fail at once I would appreciate it. The part number the dealer gave me was 27613-01p10. A google search only lists the 300zx as a fit for that part number, which makes me question if it will work in a Skyline. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461548-r32-gtr-climate-control-globes/
Share on other sites

well here is the fast diagram, the bulb part number for my VIN is 28529-05U00.

climate-bulbs.jpg

Having said that, it seems unlikely they have all gone at once for no other reason. I've not had that unit in the car for a while but I assume the lights are meant to come on when the headlights do?

If so, which other lights do or don't light up when the headlights do? Dash? Radio? Other dash buttons? It seems more likely a fuse is blown or there is a wiring issue.

I don't have it handy at the moment, but from memory the dash/switch lights come from the taillight fuse because they come on at the same time. From there, there are about a billion joins in the loom and one of those may have failed. They also join through either a pink or green common joiner near the fuse box so something may be missing there as well. either way, you could probably tap into something like the dash's lights and run a wire to the climate control unit if that is the issue.

They're called a T3.

I went to LED's, colour choices and brighter illumination, easily sourced on the net.

Cheap, usually come in a set of 6 so you'll have a few left over.

I went for blue colour thinking it would match the original but no they're too dull.

In Aus we have a forum member who sells all sizes of LEDs but I guess you'd find a source closer to home.

post-73571-0-13413600-1449607037_thumb.jpg

post-73571-0-88008900-1449607054_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Thanks for all the replies. Turns out a 92 Subaru SVX uses the same bulbs and my dad has one of those as a parts car. That will tide me over until I find better ones online.

As far as all of them going out at once, they have been dead since I bought the car so they very well could have died one at a time and the previous owner just never replaced them.

Edit: Just to add some additional info. All 6 bulbs really were bad. Also 1 of the 3 gauges in the middle cluster and about half the bulbs around the dash are also burned out. Also 1 from the primary gauge cluster. Apparently the previous owner didn't care about interior lights.

Edited by GoneGoose

One more question. The bulbs around the dashboard (headlight switch, rear defrost, etc) look similar to the T3s in the climate control, but with a much longer "neck". Any ideas what those are? I am not finding any T3s that match. Thanks again.

Here's what I'm gonna be using for my climate control lights.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/neox-led-bulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led/221/

And those long neck bulbs are 3mm bulbs. So here's what Imma buy. (Bulk sale but cheaper then buying separate )

http://www.topledlight.com/Wholesale-3mm-led-lights_c809

Just need to remove the old bulb and wire these the same way. Pretty simple. You will love going to LED over regular stock bulbs. So much brighter and cleaner looking.

P.S.

Forgot to add I'm in America so not sure what shipping might be for you or what you may have that's closer lol

Edited by B-Turbo
  • 1 year later...
  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 100% agree. Best bet on an RB will be NEO, but even it will be a long way off. Emissions is one of the big reasons car manufacturers went to DBW and constantly variable cams. When cruising, open the throttle right up, but reduce dynamic compression so low, that it's basically an unrestricted air pump moving very little air.
    • I’m hosting a bunch of execs in the McLaren box on Saturday. If you’re around I’ll come say hi, and see if I can sneak out some freebies.
    • Yes. All of this. But even when you get the NOx as low as you can go on an RB, it will no doubt still be way too high. Same with CO and HCs. The tech and the tuning time just isn't there.
    • Dang. I love the little 'oil used' bingo card on the side.   🤣  Well, now they can use a box and an oil-filled goon.
    • Many many moons ago, I was chatting with Andy Wyatt, about his auto ignition tuning. One of the HUGE things he said to me, when tuning for power, right where you hit peak ignition timing for your max torque, dramatically increases NOx emissions. He was finding in testing, particularly on engines you could advance timing beyond peak torque, that backing the ignition timing off a couple of degrees only made for a small drop in torque (compared to if you keep backing it off further the same amount of degrees) but dramatically reduced NOx emissions. I'd say targetting for 14.7, and he's even mentioned in some scenarios going slightly leaner, and pulling a few degrees of IGN timing will help pass for emissions quite a lot. However, who tunes an RB for emissions
×
×
  • Create New...