buy a r33 turbo or keep my non turbo

[MR R33]

hi everyone

i am thinking of sellin my r33 non turbo and upgrading to the turbo the only problem that i have had with mine is the clutch. with the r33 gtst do they have more problems than a non turbo. the one om thinking of getting has a rebuit engine with only 700kms and new clutch and gearbox. do you think i should go ahead and buy it or should i keep my non turbo.

i also wanted to know what are the main things that i should look out for on the gtst when i inspect it

your feedback will be appreciated

[Serious-Seven]

R33 GTS-t... go for it..

[MR R33]

R33 GTS-t... go for it..

but will i get many problems with it being a turbo or does that start when i strat boostin it cause all the engine is stock apart from an airfilter and a supersonic BOV

[Serious-Seven]

but will i get many problems with it being a turbo or does that start when i strat boostin it cause all the engine is stock apart from an airfilter and a supersonic BOV

for everyday driving id say around 11psi would be sweet... you shouldnt get much problems.. hopefully none if its been fresh.

[krzysiu]

The only problem is that the engine gets wasted quicker with a turbo, but it is much more nicer to drive (w0o0o0o0 b00st). My cars engine is close to a rebuild (running 17Psi) as soon as it gets completely rooted i am shovin in an RB26DETT. Go for the GTS-T.

[Jimbo2000]

pro's and cons

once the mod bug catches you (and it will with a gtst) say goodbye to a lot of money and hello to a lot of heartbreak, nothings ever enough

if you can keep it standard then its a wise move but then again what fun it that o_O

[Spook's_Skyline]

i use and recommend a turbo nissan

[AssM@N]

so true jimbo!!

go out, have a drive of a gtst, if u like it a lot, then get it

else - the gts will get u moving everyday, just slower:P

[predator]

The only problem is that the engine gets wasted quicker with a turbo, but it is much more nicer to drive (w0o0o0o0 b00st). My cars engine is close to a rebuild (running 17Psi) as soon as it gets completely rooted i am shovin in an RB26DETT. Go for the GTS-T.

Not necessarily.. mine ran 11-12psi for the near 2 years i had it, and the year before it the previous owner ran similar boost. If the engine is in good condition and tuned well with appropriate modifications there should be no problems. Adding an aftermarket turbo running 17psi.. well that is different If you keep the stock turbo, you should be able to run 180rwkw or so no problems for years and years if you ask me.

Go for the r33 gts-t.. at the moment seems to be a great time to buy.. some nice ones around 16-17k all around australia it seems.. r32 are too expensive at the moment, and the rb25det is the superior motor.

[MR R33]

thanks every1. the gtst im looking at has no modifications to the engine except for a hks pod filter and a turbosmart BOV. it hasnt been boosted. the engine and gearbox has been rebuilt and it has a heavy duty clutch. usually when the engine is rebuilt is anything done to the turbo. if i drive normally changing at 3 rpm but occasionally give it a bit more do u think that the turbo would be alrite or do i have a chance of blowing it

[Serious-Seven]

thanks every1.  the gtst im looking at has no modifications to the engine except for a hks pod filter and a turbosmart BOV. it hasnt been boosted. the engine and gearbox has been rebuilt and it has a heavy duty clutch.  usually when the engine is rebuilt is anything done to the turbo.  if i drive normally changing at 3 rpm but occasionally give it a bit more do u think that the turbo would be alrite or do i have a chance of blowing it

Your turbo wont blow unless you start boosting it, the r33 turbo are known as one great turbo when running around 11-12psi.

just dont worry about blowing your turbo if your gunna run more then .85bar.

[paulr33]

you say it hasnt been boosted but yet its had an engine rebuild. find out the cause of the engine rebuild. you can shift at red line in every gear and you wont blow the turbo.

if you run 19psi through thr stock turbo then yes you will , stock boost is fine.

i would find out why the engine was rebuilt and what exactly was done, could just be a simple turbo hiflow and the selling is saying its had a rebuilt engine. also the stock gtst clutch is fine for stock engine, seems a bit odd that it has a heavy duty clutch already.

maybe its just me that thinks its odd. anyway ask why it was rebuilt

[33Spec2]

you use more petrol with a turbo and insurance costs more so make sure you can afford it

[MR R33]

you say it hasnt been boosted but yet its had an engine rebuild. find out the cause of the engine rebuild. you can shift at red line in every gear and you wont blow the turbo.

if you run 19psi through thr stock turbo then yes you will , stock boost is fine.

i would find out why the engine was rebuilt and what exactly was done, could just be a simple turbo hiflow and the selling is saying its had a rebuilt engine. also the stock gtst clutch is fine for stock engine, seems a bit odd that it has a heavy duty clutch already.

maybe its just me that thinks its odd. anyway ask why it was rebuilt

the engine rebuild was because he said that he didnt want it to die on him. it has had machined heads, new head gaskets and stuff like that. the engine was boosted but when he got the rebuild he brought it back to normal with the stock intercooler, he said the old way attracted attention. that is why the clutch was changed to a heavy duty.

[Kaido_RR]

for everyday driving id say around 11psi would be sweet... you shouldnt get much problems.. hopefully none if its been fresh.

WRONG! It would be sweet untill u need to buy a new turbo and possible do a rebuild

Max Boost Stock r33 trubo can run is 12PSI; I would only run around 0.5, 0.6bar (which is around 6/8psi).

With that lvl of boost, you will not get many problems; I was running 0.6bar and wasnt having any problems but now i run stock boost 0.4bar (using my ebc) and i find that it is still as fun as running a high boost lvl and without having to worry about blowing my turbo or anything in my car.

Also running 12PSI, i would say would need a FMIC or an upgrade stock cooler (maybe r34 gt-t cooler)

[MR R33]

hey all you turbo owners, what should i look out for when i inspect and test drive the car.

[Spook's_Skyline]

regardless of how straight the car looks, get a professional to check it out;

a work shop u trust;

its a must;

we got a heap of stuff fixed by the dealer before we picked up our car, and it repayed the cost of the inspection easily;

when i got my car, i spent a heap of time checking out various cars, before settling on a reasonably expenive stocko 4 door; didnt mind paying extra as the car was in super good nic;

since we have had teh car, almost no problems what so ever (i blew up a clutch, not the cars fault)

[Revhead]

I ran 12psi on my stock turbo/stock cooler for 3 years, and around 80,000 of the 100,000km I've put on the car, including multiple skidpan days and a couple of trips to the drags. It even had the stock ECU until I put a Mines ECU in for the last 6 months of that. Now I'm running a T3/4, and on 10psi it's heaps quicker than the stocker was on 12psi. I certainly wouldn't say that running 12psi is a recipe for disaster as some people seem to be alluding here, and limiting boost to single figures to stop parts of your engine from exploding is completely unneccessary, but if it helps keep your mind at ease then go for it.

A turbo engine is really no more unreliable than a non-turbo engine. Just look after it and make sure it's tuned properly and you will enjoy many boost-happy years

Agree with Spooks on the point about getting it inspected by YOUR mechanic, not one the car yard/person you're buying from suggests. Other things to check are to make sure it idles smoothly, revs cleanly under load, and doesn't smoke excessively. Expect a little black smoke under heavy acceleration, particularly if boost is higher than stock or it has an aftermarket ECU, but anything else (white/blue or if it's pissing out) turn and run. Go up a hill in 4th at 80-ish and nail it. Listen for clutch slip. Pop the bonnet and look for oil leaks around the turbo, and look for excessive blow-by around the hose clamps on the intake. Also when you drive it, check the synchros, if it crunches heavily between gears then the gearbox will need a rebuild. Look at the tyres and check for signs of uneven wear, which can mean either bad wheel alignment, or suspension problems. Also do the usual check for rust, accident repairs, condition, dodginess etc.

This is all stuff that applies to all cars, turbo or NA, Skyline or not. That's all I can think of atm, but there are no doubt other things to check out.