R32gtr Have Not Been Used For Some Time, Oil Advice

[christianR32GTR]

Ok so I have bought a R32 GTR from Japan, 1 owner and full service documents from new, it have a genuine and documented Km og under 11000...

For a little year it have not seen any use and have been standing stil.

So now I will receive the car soon and will of course do a full service, what oil would you guys start with? I am thinking a semi synthetic to start with not to loosen any slag or oil deposits due to the car not having seen much use, then do a change or two before going to normal synthetic oil.

Any advice or do this sound ok?

[Hadouken]

Id put canola oil in it

[XGTRX]

Penrite HPR Diesel 15 Engine Oil - 15W-50, high zinc and will gently clean the engine, drop it after 1000 kms and filter and refill.

Good viscosity for the summer too.

Then you can change to full syn if u want but if you change every 5k with semi it won't be a problem.

[djr81]

Stuff that. Just use the oil that you intend to keep using. Drop it a little early if you are worried about it, but generally don't stress. Remember the thing was designed 25 years ago and you have to try really, really hard to buy an oil that is worse than the best available in 1989.

[Missileman]

edward lee's ?

[XGTRX]

Stuff that. Just use the oil that you intend to keep using. Drop it a little early if you are worried about it, but generally don't stress. Remember the thing was designed 25 years ago and you have to try really, really hard to buy an oil that is worse than the best available in 1989.

What, you have a problem with HPR diesel.

[djr81]

No, it is doubtless an excellent engine oil for diesel engines and the folks at Penrite would have laboured long and hard to make it so.

It will be fine with just about any semi synthetic or full synthetic oil you can buy. They are all streets ahead of the stuff Nissan filled them with 25 years ago. Having said that I still use a full synthetic oil.

As for slag or deposits there should be none anyway, so no need to concern yourself with them.

[XGTRX]

No, it is doubtless an excellent engine oil for diesel engines and the folks at Penrite would have laboured long and hard to make it so.

It will be fine with just about any semi synthetic or full synthetic oil you can buy. They are all streets ahead of the stuff Nissan filled them with 25 years ago. Having said that I still use a full synthetic oil.

As for slag or deposits there should be none anyway, so no need to concern yourself with them.

Fair enough, but I can only go on my experience and after 60000km of abuse and voluntary strip down and check after a blown headgasket, the bearings were perfect with no signs of wear, burns or deposits anywhere in the engine. After 3000kms it looked like this

Hence my recommendation to the OPs question.

$76 per 10 litres, high in zinc, high in dispersants and real world proof in protection, can't go wrong with results like that, that's why I keep using it.

Each to their own I suppose.

[Hadouken]

But have you compared this with any other test of the same conditions?

[XGTRX]

No, but the product has proven itself, not saying its better or worse than anything else, just saying its proven to work and work very well. If it didn't I would have swapped out the bearings at 60 000km if I saw any wear and wouldn't use it again.

Enough evidence to recommend the product to someone else.

BTW the pic is at 30 000km not 3000.

So based on that I don't see a need to go full synthetic unless you don't want to change oil every 4-5000 km, but I think most GTR owners have OCD problems and would not let any oil run for more than 5000.

[breaker1845]

Oil just hit 5001km, better drop my oil on the side of the road and change it before something happens.

[Hadouken]

Nekminit starts thread about a weird knocking noise

[Burger]

Penrite HPR Diesel 15 Engine Oil - 15W-50, high zinc and will gently clean the engine, drop it after 1000 kms and filter and refill.

Good viscosity for the summer too.

Then you can change to full syn if u want but if you change every 5k with semi it won't be a problem.&&0){for(var>

I always thought the D in RB25DET was for Diesel. Now I know.

[niZmO_Man]

I change my oil every 10,000km unless it's been tracked (runs hot).

[djr81]

I always thought the D in RB25DET was for Diesel. Now I know.

Engines are engines. The difference between diesel and petrol is that diesels are dirty stinking horrible buckets of snot and the oils for them are designed to deal with all that rubbish. So you run it in a petrol motor and logically end up with it being very clean. Whether or not that is necessary and what you may be losing in other areas I couldnt even begin to quantify as I am no tribologist.

What I would say about the Penrite stuff is they appear to have usefully more zinc in them than other oils if the blurb on the can can be beleived. Zinc helps look after surfaces like the cam buckets in your rb26. Alot of oils reduce zinc content to look after the catalysts. Have had a bloke in an old Alfa turn up his nose at the offer of some Mobil 1 for that very reason.

Also alot of engine oils are useable for both petrol and diesel so the differences arent necessarily so marked.

Would I want a non friction modified semi synthetic oil, probably not but the HPR diesel is also listed a suitable for petrol motors. So it is an interesting choice and a pretty unconventional one but not necessarily as odd as it may appear on face value.

Edited December 23, 2015 by djr81

[XGTRX]

Been using it since 2006.

In a modified Ls2 and sold it at 220000km, the guy that bought it has another 20000km, still running perfectly.

As above built RB26, strip down at 60000km and inspected, no deposit, perfect bearings with no signs of wear so put them back in.

Friend's VLT GT42 that has copped a beating for 40000km, no issue

Alfa33 320000km, 50000km on this oil, cops a beating also, no issue

Mates G6ET modified and using the oil for 40000km never missed a beat.

The oil must be doing something right.

Apart from the higher dispersants and zinc, it is identical to equivalent petrol oils, and I think the inclusion of these 2 components is a very good thing for any engine, with enough real world proof to convince me to keep using it.

Each to their own though, but my own logic is that we shouldn't make judgements or assumptions on a product that they haven't used or experienced.

Another guy i know through friends uses Valvoline XLD 20W-50 Premium in a SR20 he built 10 years ago, swaps it out every 4000 and swears by it, still going strong after 120000km, who am I to have an opinion on it as I don't use it and I don't know. But there are many guys that shoot him down for using it. Go figure.

[djr81]

The zinc I reckon to be a good thing. The petrol equivalent has that too.

The dispersants I don't reckon you need diesel levels in a petrol engine, even one as dirty as a fat on fuel RB26.

The shortcomings in the diesel oil to my mind are a lack of friction modifiers (Costing hp and fuel) and that it is semi synthetic (Compensated for by the dispersants in it).

I would argue, however, that you are better off with the fully synthetic petrol equivalent in a 10W50 (HPR10 10W50) or if you want to be really flash the Racing products.

But each to their own.

[niZmO_Man]

My Liberty burned Racing 10, how annoying. My GT-R didn't on a race track, overheating twice. RB4life.

[jiffo]

Never had any success using diesel oil in an older petrol engine, stripped off the carbon seal and she was a smoker/oil burner from then on.

Should be fine for a new build however.

But has anyone else wondered about our oil change intervals? 5000k for the Rb's whereas most modern cars are somewhere from 10,000 to 20,000k.

Admittedly the turbo variants often have reduced oil change intervals but still we must be chucking good expensive oil out at such short mileage.

Did you know today's USA trucks (those without EGR) do engine oil changes at 300,000 MILES.

Amazing stuff with regular oil analysis, good filtration, no EGR and owners tell me the oil is still going fine, they simply do the change "just in case".

[jiffo]

Some more filter info>

My USA trucking friend suggested I look into Gulf Coast filters, the system he uses on his trucks.

Hello, 1-micron by-pass filtration.

Now this has been around forever, in fact I used Franz by-pass filters back in the day until Castrol mounted such a frightening advertising campaign we went back to our previous fortnightly oil changes. (Castrol suggested Franz filtration was removing their special additives)

Some reading from Gulf Coast Filters, Oil Filtration Systems and others shows the additives are in fact not removed at 1-micron filter levels, and there's testimony from customers with1,000,000 mile oil changes !!!!

Looks like my old Franz and Jackmaster by-pass filters will be coming out of the shed.

Now where can I fit a dunny roll filter under the bonnet of the 32……..