Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Am probably going to end up with a need for a new exhaust on my old GTR. The usual wish list of stainless, quiet with little power loss applies. The following HKS system looked pretty good (I don't want a drone cannon)

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/exhaust/muffler/stm/index.html

Anyway the point is the system runs to $1000 plus $470 worth of air freight pricing from RHD Japan and I suspect with the application of Straya tax it would be more again if I sourced it locally.

The question is: Is there a better/cheaper exhaust option or a better shipping option that anyone has used recently?

Please note I live in WA so freight ex the eastern states can hurt a bit too. Not trying to be a tight arse just cant fathom the logic of spending so much on air freight for something that isn't urgent and never had any success in using sea freight.

'Twere me I would source the muffler they use on that system from them (if I really wanted that muffler) and a centre-offset or centre-centre (like the one in the HKS system) mid muffler locally and get a local shop to make the rest up. Then you only pay shipping for the bit that really matters.

I had to replace the mid muffler on my (Jap) system a few years ago. Can't remember which one I got exactly, but there is certainly more than one option available locally that will do the job perfectly well. The rest of it is just pipe and hangers.

Mostly because I live in the country and the options for non muppet related exhaust shops are pretty limited and competence tends to run out at 3".

Can anyone recommend brand names - cause it is all about the brand name, mostly JASMA. But seriously that would help.

  • Like 1

Why not source some universal mufflers and get a system made by a local guy?

This is what I would do. Cost you maybe $200-$300ea for mufflers x2 of solid quality, be super quiet because of it as well.

It'll end up costing around $$120-$1500 depending on CAT needed or not.

JASMA isn't a brand name, it's just a noise certification. Problem is Jap systems that are like 3.5" and JASMA, usually have a nasty 2.5" restrictor (midway through) or similar step-down somewhere along the line totally negating the point of going bigger in a Jap branded/quiet exhaust.

I've never had a problem sea freight using Import Monster for 8 years or so now. When you pack and unpack your own container, you can ensure it's not stuffed.

JASMA isn't a brand name, it's just a noise certification. Problem is Jap systems that are like 3.5" and JASMA, usually have a nasty 2.5" restrictor (midway through) or similar step-down somewhere along the line totally negating the point of going bigger in a Jap branded/quiet exhaust.

I've never had a problem sea freight using Import Monster for 8 years or so now. When you pack and unpack your own container, you can ensure it's not stuffed.

Yeah I know - the Jasma thing was a feeble joke.

Car has an APEXI on it but no chance of getting that again, obviously.

It's a good system.

Cost me about $1280 delivered. RHD.

The difference now would be the AUD V Yen.

I didn't get in customs charge.

HKS Australia will charge the same.

is it a true 90mm diameter system or does it have the usual shitty stepdowns ?

I have an old Nismo catback thats a touch bigger than 3" for a couple hundred bucks.

Either use as is or chop up for its good mufflers.

Welcome to inspect next time you're up near Barbs (I'm in Warwick)

is it a true 90mm diameter system or does it have the usual shitty stepdowns ?

Its 85mm all the way but reduced to 80mm at the connection to the Cat exit.

Have one on my 33.

Does not seem to be restrictive and no drone.

Quiet below 3k above its a nice sound, not to offensive to the public. :-)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...