Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright I've been googling fuel pressure reg set up over the past few days in order to set up my Tomei Type L FPR on my R34 GT-T. Unfortunately I've been coming up with conflicting information.

1. What is base fuel pressure? I've found answers ranging from 34psi - 43.5psi

2. When do I take the reading of base pressure?

Is it at idle?

Is when the key is turned to accessory and the pump has primed?

Do I need to block the vacuum line?

3. Please refrain from telling me to keep the standard regulator. That is not the question I am asking.

and I suggest taking that FPR selling it and buying something better like a Turbosmart FPR1200 or so.. even those SX FPR seem ok (according to my mate that works on EVOs)

Those Tomei FPRs "may" work, but they don't control pressure smoothly when you connect a fuel pressure gauge on them.. Whenever you jab the throttle on and off quickly you can see pressure spikes and drops all over the place making your transition throttle terrible and on the odd time you'll get massive rich spots causing either misfires OR massive backfires.

Set it to stock pressure. 43.5 at idle with vacation line removed.

It will drop when line attached.

Thank you. All done.

and I suggest taking that FPR selling it and buying something better like a Turbosmart FPR1200 or so.. even those SX FPR seem ok (according to my mate that works on EVOs)

Those Tomei FPRs "may" work, but they don't control pressure smoothly when you connect a fuel pressure gauge on them.. Whenever you jab the throttle on and off quickly you can see pressure spikes and drops all over the place making your transition throttle terrible and on the odd time you'll get massive rich spots causing either misfires OR massive backfires.

Really? That seems strange for Tomei.

I'll have the tuner check while the cars on the dyno and if thats the case I'll grab a Turbosmart one off the shelf.

Thanks for the warning!

Thank you. All done.

Really? That seems strange for Tomei.

I'll have the tuner check while the cars on the dyno and if thats the case I'll grab a Turbosmart one off the shelf.

Thanks for the warning!

Plug up a fuel pressure gauge and watch it jump up and down on hard throttle or when the boost ramps up like a mad man.

Thing is 90% of Tomei FPR on the market are fake and even the real ones aren't that good either... A friend I regularly go to the track with swaped out his so called genuine Tomei FPR (bought from Nengun) for a Turbosmart FPR1200 and now he is able to run less duty cycle and smooth out the injection table not to mention he now requires less throttle pump.

Hijack, I have fpr800, seems to work ok.

The only thing that bugs me I'm not allowed to touch the throttle when the car is dead cold for the first minit or it will stall. If I increase the throttle pump will that affect the tune when it's warm or is there a seperate cold pump

Hijack, I have fpr800, seems to work ok.

The only thing that bugs me I'm not allowed to touch the throttle when the car is dead cold for the first minit or it will stall. If I increase the throttle pump will that affect the tune when it's warm or is there a seperate cold pump

Wut?

Are you sure your cold start is tuned 100%? Depending on the ECU, may need some fuel corrections changed or even timing

I doubt the fuel reg is causing issues when cold but not when hot.

Hijack, I have fpr800, seems to work ok.

The only thing that bugs me I'm not allowed to touch the throttle when the car is dead cold for the first minit or it will stall. If I increase the throttle pump will that affect the tune when it's warm or is there a seperate cold pump

what ECU?

what you can do is use the temperature fuel compensation and add in more fuel when the motor is cold.

Yea go turbosmart my genuine tomei one causeing me issues had to go to turbosmart

and now you fry tyres for days :)

I've converted you hahaha, preach the good words to the masses!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...