Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright I've been googling fuel pressure reg set up over the past few days in order to set up my Tomei Type L FPR on my R34 GT-T. Unfortunately I've been coming up with conflicting information.

1. What is base fuel pressure? I've found answers ranging from 34psi - 43.5psi

2. When do I take the reading of base pressure?

Is it at idle?

Is when the key is turned to accessory and the pump has primed?

Do I need to block the vacuum line?

3. Please refrain from telling me to keep the standard regulator. That is not the question I am asking.

and I suggest taking that FPR selling it and buying something better like a Turbosmart FPR1200 or so.. even those SX FPR seem ok (according to my mate that works on EVOs)

Those Tomei FPRs "may" work, but they don't control pressure smoothly when you connect a fuel pressure gauge on them.. Whenever you jab the throttle on and off quickly you can see pressure spikes and drops all over the place making your transition throttle terrible and on the odd time you'll get massive rich spots causing either misfires OR massive backfires.

Set it to stock pressure. 43.5 at idle with vacation line removed.

It will drop when line attached.

Thank you. All done.

and I suggest taking that FPR selling it and buying something better like a Turbosmart FPR1200 or so.. even those SX FPR seem ok (according to my mate that works on EVOs)

Those Tomei FPRs "may" work, but they don't control pressure smoothly when you connect a fuel pressure gauge on them.. Whenever you jab the throttle on and off quickly you can see pressure spikes and drops all over the place making your transition throttle terrible and on the odd time you'll get massive rich spots causing either misfires OR massive backfires.

Really? That seems strange for Tomei.

I'll have the tuner check while the cars on the dyno and if thats the case I'll grab a Turbosmart one off the shelf.

Thanks for the warning!

Thank you. All done.

Really? That seems strange for Tomei.

I'll have the tuner check while the cars on the dyno and if thats the case I'll grab a Turbosmart one off the shelf.

Thanks for the warning!

Plug up a fuel pressure gauge and watch it jump up and down on hard throttle or when the boost ramps up like a mad man.

Thing is 90% of Tomei FPR on the market are fake and even the real ones aren't that good either... A friend I regularly go to the track with swaped out his so called genuine Tomei FPR (bought from Nengun) for a Turbosmart FPR1200 and now he is able to run less duty cycle and smooth out the injection table not to mention he now requires less throttle pump.

Hijack, I have fpr800, seems to work ok.

The only thing that bugs me I'm not allowed to touch the throttle when the car is dead cold for the first minit or it will stall. If I increase the throttle pump will that affect the tune when it's warm or is there a seperate cold pump

Hijack, I have fpr800, seems to work ok.

The only thing that bugs me I'm not allowed to touch the throttle when the car is dead cold for the first minit or it will stall. If I increase the throttle pump will that affect the tune when it's warm or is there a seperate cold pump

Wut?

Are you sure your cold start is tuned 100%? Depending on the ECU, may need some fuel corrections changed or even timing

I doubt the fuel reg is causing issues when cold but not when hot.

Hijack, I have fpr800, seems to work ok.

The only thing that bugs me I'm not allowed to touch the throttle when the car is dead cold for the first minit or it will stall. If I increase the throttle pump will that affect the tune when it's warm or is there a seperate cold pump

what ECU?

what you can do is use the temperature fuel compensation and add in more fuel when the motor is cold.

Yea go turbosmart my genuine tomei one causeing me issues had to go to turbosmart

and now you fry tyres for days :)

I've converted you hahaha, preach the good words to the masses!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...