Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, How strong is the Standard 5sp box and diff, driveshafts, etc in the R31?

I ask, as I am thinking of doing an rb30det conversion on an r31.

Would be running forged pistons, turbo mods etc, so realistically looking at 250+kw at the fly,

Will I destroy the running gear in short time? :flamed:

Honest answers required, as I dont want to have to switch to a 25det gearbox any time soon.

Thankyou,

Cameron McDonald

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46202-r31-aussie-5sp-drivetrain-strength/
Share on other sites

generally the "strength" of any component is less important than the manner in which it is used. If the question is can I multiply the power of the engine threefold, sidestep the clutch at 4,500 rpm and then flat change it through the cogs and have it survive the answer is NO. But if you are mechanically sympathetic and have some clues on advanced driving techniques that minimise damage to the more highly stressed drivetrain and the box was in good working order initially then the answer is probably YES.

There's a dude over here with a RB30et in his Aussie GTS2 and that has 374rwhp with the N/A 5 speed,brass button clutch and still going strong.

The torque this thing has is way to much as he can cruz at 100kph in 5th then give it some and off he goes sideways in 5th,sounds hard to beleive but it does it.

Bit of a waste post coz that box is a freak.

Yeah got to love his driving style :) but the reason why it has lasted so long is because he still has pretty standard tread, nothing special, last time i checked they definately were not over 225/ as soon as he gets some decent tyre size on there then bye bye gearbox.

But yes 374 rwhp and no wider than 225 tyres creates some awsome driving;)

A fella I know has a 240z race car with a VG30DET and 200KW @ the wheels, He runs a non turbo gearbox, I wouldn't say he abuses it but it does get a work out. As far as I know its stood up to the power, the importance would be not to put too much torque thru the higher gears, change down out of fifth!

I ran an rb30et that hit over 200rwkw and I was using the stock Rb30 na manual box which was over 330,000 km old.

I have just got the rb26 running and am using the stock box for now, so I will find out the strength of the box real fast!!!

As for diffs. I only broke the spider gears on one diff. I belive there is a harlequin R31 running 10's? I spoke to the owner last year and he was still using the stock diff, just with a minni spool.

250kw+ fly? if you are going for an rb30det with forged pistons and things 300rwkw (maybe 400kw fly) should be easy. Thats going to tear most things apart :P If you wanted 250rwkw just put get the bottom end converted to VL turbo pistons.

i think the torque would grind it pretty quickly. Apparently RB30e box and RB20DET box are very similar strength.. Some have killed their rb20det boxes at 180rwkw, others have got 250rwkw. So like people have said, its how you drive it and a bit of luck thrown in.

A diff specialist also told me similar about the borg warner diffs.. might make heaps of noise and not real too fancy.. but good for quite a big amount hp.

The only real weak link in any R31 is the tailshaft and diff. (Both ozzie made) Treat the Standard box nice, and it will be OK, a Series 3 manual box is stronger than a series 1/2 manual box. But if you want to have a car you don't have to worry about, no matter what, put a VL Turbo Box in or a RB25 Box, and a one piece tailshaft. Howdy by the way DVS-JET.

Thanks for the replies guys, Still unsure about the project, just doing some thinking at this stage.

Predator, I would rather use the forged pistons, as the VL turbo pistons will create a very low compression ratio with the twin cam head (7:1? or so)= monster lag.

I work for Repco, so buying a new set of forgies and doing the bottom end properly would be slightly(i hope) more affordable for me compared to the average joe off the street.

How well would the standard rb25det turbo go on this combo, what sort of boost could it generate without disintegrating the ceramic turbine wheel?

Basically the idea is to take a stock r31, build the bottom end nice and strong, get an r33 gtst halfcut, slap on the head, wiring loom turbo, etc straight in.

Then take it from there, if more horses are desired.

Obviously if the r33 rb25det halfcut is a manual, I would use the box out of it, but I have a friend who has an r33 gtst with an auto on the way out, so the idea would be to go halvies, I take the head, turbo, loom,efi sys.

He gets the block, auto and rack,etc,etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I like it when the counter chick leads you out the back into the racks and says "have a grub around in here and see if you can find what you need. I'll be back in a few minutes. Just left me in front of a massive motorised shelving system and 2-3 million fasteners, so I could find a peculiar SS shoulder bolt with cap head. Gotta love country towns.
    • I used this https://osgiken.com.au/product/os-giken-os-250r-lsd-gear-oil-80w250-1-litre/   shut my nismo 1.5 pro up by heaps…. Not silent though. Gives the car character and personality. It ain’t a carolla. If you want silent, put a quaife in it.
    • It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...
    • I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...