Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dont get me started on YJ's and performance China Racing wise lol. I think a few of you saw the shit storm on some of the products I and a few others had bought which do not fit.

FYP

  • Like 1

FYP

good call. fixed it myself too ;)

I HAVE to say; That certain supplier is worse than the producer, as they should have stopped importing certain parts. Anything to make a quick buck eh? Don't worry about stepping over anyone on your way there.

quick question ,what if you over tap the spark plug and the gaps to small. what do you use to widen the gap without damaging it ?

quick question ,what if you over tap the spark plug and the gaps to small. what do you use to widen the gap without damaging it ?

i have used a flat head in the past and was very careful to push it up.

I think you are aware of the problem (being the coils) and band aiding it by gapping the plugs down isn't really going to be a long term solution.

Our setups are quite similar. Same turbo, computer, AFM, injectors. Though my car makes around 40 rwkw more at the same boost.

I run Splitfires and only had an occasional misfire when using BCPR6ES plugs, but since changing to one heat range colder (the same as you are running) I've had no misfire issues.

I've got brand new Splitfires with BCPR7ES (I think, or whatever Trent told me to get). On 18psi I still had a misfire. Gapped them to about .6mm and they are all good.

I think you should be aware that results with coilpacks and plugs seem to vary quite greatly on RBs for some reason. Two people can have identical set ups but have two very different experiences. There's obviously something else in play, but plug gaps are the only known fix as far as I am aware.

before reading replies i figured out how to put the gap back up haha i found my round medallion tool and used that. i checked 2 spark plugs and the gap was 0.75mm ..they were supposed to be 0.9mm. unless im measuring it wrong but i span the medallion around carefully till it stopped moving and its where it landed.

i'll do the rest tomorrow so i can see what im doing lol

There's obviously something else in play, but plug gaps are the only known fix as far as I am aware.[/background]

Only known fix? There are several ways that could fix the problem other than gapping down the plugs.

It could be a poor engine or coilpack loom. Or the engine earth could be the problem. Also the connection to the spark plug within the coil pack and the coil pack plug itself could be the issue - though this is easily fixed by cleaning the coilpack and using dielectric grease.

By gapping the plugs down, you are trading off low throttle performance and economy, and the car will make more power through the rev range with the largest gap you can get away with running.

So yes everyone's engine is in different levels of condition, but I'd fix the underlying problem rather than living with gapped down plugs.

yeah im just gapping them down for a temporary fix, didnt realise you lose low throttle response though :( car is already poor on petrol lol lucky to get 300km out of a full a tank .

coilpack loom look looks like new from my untrained eyes.

coilpacks look very clean i took two of them off earlier, i didnt use dielectric grease though i'll lhave to look into that

I find they're ok on the dyno whilst I'm tuning, great for street use.. as soon as I hit the track and do a few laps.. bamm misfire city!

But at 0.5mm it's tits.. no misfires at all!!!

Interesting

My old splitfires died recently (this was not a gap issue, they were breaking down nearly on idle. Must have had at least 1 no good coil) so i have a brand new set in now

Might gap the plugs a bit lower next time to be safe. Although its only a street car and havent really had any dramas before on 0.8

Interesting

My old splitfires died recently (this was not a gap issue, they were breaking down nearly on idle. Must have had at least 1 no good coil) so i have a brand new set in now

Might gap the plugs a bit lower next time to be safe. Although its only a street car and havent really had any dramas before on 0.8

How long did they last if you don't mind me asking?

update on the ebay dude:If it is a faulty coil then it would only be 1. It wouldn't be all 6 at the same time.

This alone is an extremely rare occurrence as a lot of care goes into these coils during the manufacturing process.

We will need isolate the single faulty coil though so it can be replaced under warranty.

Thanks.

whats my reply going to be ? should i go for replacements or keep insisting on a refund. to me replacing them is more hassle and seems a waste of time if they're going to keep failing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...