Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have recently had my BNR32 Vspec tuned.

Its set up includes stroked 26/30, 3.2L with twin low mount Trust t618z-10cm's.

The power made was 559.7hp atw on 18psi. The ignition started to play up, as they are the original coil's.

Question? What will I have to do to make a HKS twin power with BNR34 harness work in a RB26 from a BNR32? is it as simple as installing the Twin power to some R34 Coils and plug the harness in?

Any advice from experience would be greatly appreciated.

post-141410-0-45223200-1452080129_thumb.jpg

post-141410-0-99079600-1452080222_thumb.jpg

post-141410-0-57289000-1452080327_thumb.png

Another option that may work out cheaper would be to swap to LQ9 (LS truck) coils.

Great looking car by the way. Where did you get the bonnet from? It's a style I haven't seen before.

Edited by Ryno
  On 07/01/2016 at 4:40 AM, r32-25t said:

this or splitfires, sometimes we need to not make mountains out of mole hills people

Splitfires FTW! They are a proven product that can handle a high hp setup.

Even with 3200cc those turbos aren't all in till 5000rpm? Good golly they are such rubbish.

Anyway, as others have said - try out fresh stock coil packs first. If problem persists, go after market if replacing at your power level. Might as well :)

HKS DLI was good 10 years ago, but the world has come a long way and there are better/cheaper offerings out now.

  • Like 1
  On 07/01/2016 at 2:30 AM, XKLABA said:

D585 LS2 truck coils, www.ls2rb.com, bit of wiring to remove ignitor and more spark energy you should ever need

  On 07/01/2016 at 4:40 AM, r32-25t said:

this or splitfires, sometimes we need to not make mountains out of mole hills people

Well, these two solutions are, in order from the 2nd quote upwards, 1) the easy good workable solution and 2) the bit more difficult, bit more involved but technically better solution that really doesn't cost much more and is highly recommended for those who intend to lean hard on the boost.

You makes your choice depending on how much effort you can put into it vs your intended usage model.

  On 08/01/2016 at 3:39 AM, Piggaz said:

Don't forget to replace your 25 year old crusty/burnt coil pack loom.

Wiring Specialities do a replacement loom for less than the OEM loom and I dare say is of the same quality if not better :)

Both non braided and braided versions too.

http://www.wiringspecialties.com/wisprbcohabr1.html

  On 08/01/2016 at 3:50 AM, johnnilicte said:

Wiring Specialities do a replacement loom for less than the OEM loom and I dare say is of the same quality if not better :)

Both non braided and braided versions too.

http://www.wiringspecialties.com/wisprbcohabr1.html

God damn the RB25 one is cheap - Do you know what they are like with shipping mate? i.e will they ship to Aus/is it expensive to ship?

Cheers

  On 08/01/2016 at 3:22 AM, GTSBoy said:

Well, these two solutions are, in order from the 2nd quote upwards, 1) the easy good workable solution and 2) the bit more difficult, bit more involved but technically better solution that really doesn't cost much more and is highly recommended for those who intend to lean hard on the boost.

You makes your choice depending on how much effort you can put into it vs your intended usage model.

Cost $480 for everything with new coils and an hour with the soldering gun, had the whole conversion done in an afternoon

post-36620-0-25325600-1452284809_thumb.jpeg

  On 08/01/2016 at 3:50 AM, johnnilicte said:

Wiring Specialities do a replacement loom for less than the OEM loom and I dare say is of the same quality if not better :)

Both non braided and braided versions too.

http://www.wiringspecialties.com/wisprbcohabr1.html

$100? What's delivery? + exchange rate, sounds like it'd be more?

OEM from Nissan AU is only $140... Well, that's what I paid when I got mine for my RB26 5 years ago, I doubt it's gone up too much in price.

I use Ignition Project / Plazma direct coils as a bolt in solution that uses an OEM loom. That and copper BCPR-7ES plugs gapped at 0.65, no sign of ignition issues at all. 705hp atw.

  On 08/01/2016 at 8:25 PM, XKLABA said:

Cost $480 for everything with new coils and an hour with the soldering gun, had the whole conversion done in an afternoon

image.jpeg

Looks great, King of the Hill :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
×
×
  • Create New...