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R34 Gt Questions

JDMfrank
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JDMfrank Rookie

JDMfrank

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I've been looking at some upgrades for my GT,


From what i can see there is some differences between mine and the GTT model.


Coilovers - mine are eye type rather than fork type in the GTT, have been reading coilovers for an R33 GTST Are the ones to get for my car is this correct?


Adjustable arms - are any of the other suspension arms and components different in mine compared to the GTT, For example adjustable camber arms I've been looking at.


Diff - I've also been looking at specifically a Kaaz 2 way diff, is the the diff housing the same and i can just purchase a 2 way for a GTT for my car?


Driveshafts/brakes - are these also the same between the two model's? maybe the best thing is to grab a complete rear subframe with brakes and all arms from a GTT and put it in my car and then use the proper r34 coilovers.


Any help is greatly appreciated

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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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All of this information is already available on these forums. By searching.

But for nom nom spec spoonfeeding value.....

Coilovers. Yes.

Arms. All the same.

Diff. All R200 housings will swallow all R200 centres, with only a few confusing exceptions that you won't have to worry about.

Driveshafts. No. You have 6 bolt (3x2) axles, the same all all the shittier Skylines and Silvias. Turbo Skylines have 5 bolt flanges and tougher CVs. GTRs have beefy 6 bolt flanges and are tougher again.

Brakes. No. NAs have shitty sliding caliper brakes. GTTs have opposed pistons. You wouldn't put the rear brakes from a turbo on a car that has NA brakes at the front. But you can fairly freely swap all of them. Note that R34s have bigger caliper bolts than all earlier Skylines, which will make it harder to mix/match outside of the 34 breed.

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JDMfrank Rookie

JDMfrank

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  • Author
Posted (edited)

All of this information is already available on these forums. By searching.

But for nom nom spec spoonfeeding value.....

Coilovers. Yes.

Arms. All the same.

Diff. All R200 housings will swallow all R200 centres, with only a few confusing exceptions that you won't have to worry about.

Driveshafts. No. You have 6 bolt (3x2) axles, the same all all the shittier Skylines and Silvias. Turbo Skylines have 5 bolt flanges and tougher CVs. GTRs have beefy 6 bolt flanges and are tougher again.

Brakes. No. NAs have shitty sliding caliper brakes. GTTs have opposed pistons. You wouldn't put the rear brakes from a turbo on a car that has NA brakes at the front. But you can fairly freely swap all of them. Note that R34s have bigger caliper bolts than all earlier Skylines, which will make it harder to mix/match outside of the 34 breed.

Oh i have been searching, but as i'm sure your well aware there is a million different posts on a hundred forums all with conflicting answers so its nice to get a knowledgeable answer to a specific question, :happy:

Plan is to swap over as much as the good stuff as i can, that would include the full brake setup. Best bet seems to be to find everything from the back end of the GTT in one go and get it all in there. Since i do plan on an eventual engine swap id like to make sure everything else is prepared first and doesn't start to fall apart with the extra power.

Edited by JDMfrank
JDMfrank Rookie

JDMfrank

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Posted

Buy gtt. Job done.

If that was an option i wouldnt be asking these question's. :no:

Would i be correct in saying if i grab myself, hub's, break setup, driveshafts and rear diff from the gtt i can go ahead and bolt these into my subframe without issue?

Where the propshaft bolt's too the diff is the same or different again?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Also, there are possibly a couple of traps for you here. I know that GTT diffs have 2 code rings for the ABS/traction control. One on each output shaft. What I do not know is whether the NA diffs have these, of if they have a single rear sped sensor off the side of the housing like some of the earlier/shittier offerings from Nissan. Or if they have none. I'm guessing none is not really an option as most of these cars should at least have had ABS.

The reason that this is important is that you can't change the sensor arrangement for the ABS/TCS computer. It will have a panic attack.

Please take some photos of the rear end of your car (from underneath) if you want any advice on which of a couple of options is the best for you to go forward with.

JDMfrank Rookie

JDMfrank

Posted
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Posted (edited)

Tailshaft same.

As I said above, and just in case you were still considering it.....do not put rear turbo brakes on unless you do the fronts too.

Frank. What country are you in?

No the plan is to swap everything over, i wouldnt be putting on the rears without the front's. Ill grab a couple pictures of underneath for you tomorrow.

Im in ireland. Appreciate the help.

Edited by JDMfrank
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Good stuff. Get as much detail on the diff housing as possible. In particular where the driveshafts connect to the flanges on the sides (where 2x speed sensors would be), the right hand side of the housing (where a single speed sensor would be), whether or not it has a rear anti-roll bar, and any other detail you can capture.

The other trap that just occurred to me is that your NA rear subframe probably doesn't have HICAS. The GTT subframe will. HICAS is gayer than a Liberace performance, so you definitely do not want that. It may in fact be smarter to retain your NA subframe. On my R32 I went to the trouble of getting a non-HICAS subframe so I could do a total HICAS delete.

JDMfrank Rookie

JDMfrank

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  • Author
Posted

Good stuff. Get as much detail on the diff housing as possible. In particular where the driveshafts connect to the flanges on the sides (where 2x speed sensors would be), the right hand side of the housing (where a single speed sensor would be), whether or not it has a rear anti-roll bar, and any other detail you can capture.

The other trap that just occurred to me is that your NA rear subframe probably doesn't have HICAS. The GTT subframe will. HICAS is gayer than a Liberace performance, so you definitely do not want that. It may in fact be smarter to retain your NA subframe. On my R32 I went to the trouble of getting a non-HICAS subframe so I could do a total HICAS delete.

Ok until i can get it onto a lift I've got some questionable shots of underneath.

What i can see:

- No hicas.

- No arb.

- single speed sensor on right hand side is where it should be.

- 6 bolt shafts as you said.

Best i can do for now are these:

DSC_0683_zpsfgosw00e.jpg

DSC_0682_zpsgr6c6kmd.jpg

DSC_0681_zpsshfbntvg.jpg

DSC_0680_zpsgrr2g3hh.jpg

DSC_0679_zpsbjzxogq3.jpg

DSC_0678_zpsykjmorcx.jpg

DSC_0677_zpsur9onzlv.jpg

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