Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1999 Nissan Skyline BNR34 GTR V-Spec

BNR34-001351

I have owned the car for approximately 5 years and it has been a weekender. It was bought completely standard. Only selling as another opportunity has come up. Obviously a Nismo enthusiast, it has taken me many years (not to mention money) to get the car to its current state. A quick calculation would show approximately $60,000 in receipts for all of the current parts.

All of the following parts are genuine, no copies whatsoever.

Exterior

-Nismo Z Tune front bar

-Nismo R-Tune Bonnet

-Nismo Side skirts and rear pods

-Nismo carbon wing blade

-Nismo Front and side smoked/clear indicators

-Nismo Pillar garnish

-Nismo Tail lights

-Nismo Diffuser fins

-Nismo Omori tow hook

Wheels / Brakes / Suspension

-Nismo LMGT4s 19x10.5 +15

-Nismo Wheel Nuts

-Nismo Titanium Strut Tower Bar

-Nismo braided brake lines

-DBA 4000 brake rotors

-Ferodo 2500 Pads F&R

-Tein Super Street damper and height adjustable

Engine / Running gear

-HKS V-CAM Stage 1 Type A

-N1 Turbos

-Apexi Power FC

-Nismo Intercooler

-Nismo Intercooler pipes

-Nismo Weldina Ne2 exhaust

-Nismo Oil cooler kit

-Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate clutch

-Nismo FPR

-Nismo Air Duct

-Nismo Air Filter

-Nismo AFMs

-Nismo fuel filler cap

-Nismo Air inlet pipes

-HKS Oil Cap (also Nismo spare)

-Racepace custom cam gears

-Racepace catch can/water

-Racepace Transfer case clutch mod

-Racepace aluminium radiator

-ID1000s injectors

-Walbro Fuel Pump

-Garage Defend Cooling Panel

Interior

-Nismo Floor Mats

-Nismo front and rear seat covers

-Nismo Titanium gear knob

-Nismo Carbon mirror cover

-Nismo upgraded MFD

-Nismo Kill switch lighter

-Nismo Harness

-Superior Auto Creative carbon gear and stereo surround

-Pioneer Stereo/Navigation system

-V-Spec 2 foot pedals

Currently makes 335rwkw on 98.

Factory parts such as bonnet, radiator, taillights, exhaust etc will come with the sale.

Car has been maintained by Racepace. Around 94k kms on clock. I do have books for the car, detailed history and receipts for all work. 100k service has recently been undertaken.

I have a service history showing maintenance every 4-5000 kms.

I guess anyone who knows me will attest to the fastidious maintenance regime and my endless pursuit of quality and perfection when it comes to my car.

​Price is $88,000 firm (with factory intercooler and XD9 wheels). Current LMGT4s and Nismo Intercooler will be an extra cost. Buyer will get first dibs on these items, so please do not offer to buy these parts separately.

​Car is located in Melbourne. Call Phil on O4 3O 337 774.

Strictly for sale only, no swaps. Genuine ready to buy enquiries only. I will only answer phone calls, no texts or PMs.

post-27204-0-33792300-1453852793_thumb.jpg

post-27204-0-11071700-1453852834_thumb.jpg

post-27204-0-02207700-1453852863_thumb.jpg

post-27204-0-45365400-1453852876_thumb.jpg

post-27204-0-72289000-1453852895_thumb.jpg

post-27204-0-83748200-1453852904_thumb.jpg

post-27204-0-44530200-1453852915_thumb.jpg

post-27204-0-61134300-1453853808_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462509-hks-v-cam-bnr34-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites

I thought you would never sell this car, Phil.

GLWS mate!

I had this ad drafted for about half a day before I had enough courage to press the 'post' button...

  • Like 3

cant believe you are selling this I have seen this car in the flesh and it is perfect and well modified only topshelf goodies.

whoever buys this would be getting a mint car.

good luck with the sale

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

GLWS Phil.

I am so tempted to get back into a R34....

Impressive list of rare Nismo parts, just need a stroker kit to top it off.

Your old GTR was my template Matt - one of the best GTR builds ever.

Update on the sale - An offer has been accepted a few weeks now but the sale wont be completed until I sort out what is happening with a car I am looking to purchase, so it is temporarily off the market.

Cheers.

  • Like 2

If the new owner is reading this, please keep us updated about the car on SAU and post lots of pics thanks :)

If only this had Z tune guards and was gun metal with black wheels :D

Not biased at all...

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...