Rb30/26 Build.

[EspenRb30]

Hi. Im a dud from Norway who is building a new engine. Im new her, and im not so very steddy on writing in eng but i will try so.

I have a RB26 top whit new bc valves and springs, Jun poncams and full overhauled. That I will use on a RB30 block that I bought from australia. I bought nitto pistons and nitro rods with oil squrter to cross bolt. Nitto 1.5 head gasket. And nitto oil pump. To use comp turbo ct43 and doc race manifold. And will use vipec v88.

So now I wonder what you think about this. I have not done this before, this is ordered after what I've been recommended.

Do you have any tips?

Want 800hp. But wonder if anyone has built some of the same?

Thanks Espen

[DCIEVE]

Sounds like a good combination. One thing I'd suggest is to give the bearing clearances some thought. The rb30 seems to need much more generous clearances than an rb26 if you're using the standard crank.

Also consider drilling and tapping the block for the larger rb26 head studs. I assume you've already thought of a good set of main studs etc.

[KiwiRS4T]

Read the RB30 build PDF in the first post in the RB30 section. Also read the RB30 section in the turbo upgrade results and you will find lots of people have done it and what they did and used.

[Kiwi r32]

Nice too see some good quality parts in your list.

As said above by KiwiRs4T have a good read through the rb30 build guide and anything your unsure of ask.

Dont mean to scare you but I hope you havent ordered your pistons before having the block checked, eg bore etc as you may need to go oversize depending on condition of the bores. (fingers crossed for you its a mint one)


Hey Dcieve is it really necessary to drill and tap the block to suit a stud 1mm larger then the rb25 head studs which go straight in?

No hate here just ive used 25 studs myself and just interested in what the advantage is?

good luck EspenRb30

[dorifticon]

There's a few unexpected surprises when assembling an RB30/26 that you may not have heard of if you're outside Aus, see link in sig

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112538

Edited April 8, 2016 by dorifticon

[jmknights93]

Following, Interested in future updates

[GTRPSI]

Drill out oil feeds for more oil to the bearings.

Factory ones are tiny....

Dont be scared....

Drill out oil drains...

Cut the groves under the bearing shells and use RB26 bearings to ensure a good oil supply.

Run a deeper larger capacity oil sump with trap doors, make sure the pickup sits low enough but not too low....(RB30 Pickup pictured).

Dont forget to make sure its in the middle of the trap door assembly, too far back and the rear door cant open to let oil in..

We used a crank scraper.

We also used Nitto pistons and rods, we anti friction coated the piston skirts and ceramic coated the crowns to assist cooling. (plus lots and lots more like partially grouting and stress reliving and deburring the block.)

We also used a Tomei oil pump due to being able to control oil pressure externally, yes clearances were set on the "too loose" side.

Cams are 280 11.5, 1mm oversized valves, thicker buckets, double valve springs, heads had the exhaust side extensively ported, yet to get around to finishing the intake ports and reshaping the combustion chambers, been too busy with work to get around to it for the last year or so....

[mitchum]

No need to drill the block out for bigger head studs... why do people insist on doing this?

[bigmikespec]

Nice crank scraper! GTRPSI