Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great economy my arse!

I've got a Pulsar, which has the same drive train in a lighter car. It drinks fuel like my Stagea. I struggle to get over 10.3k/L (yes, that's what the car trip meter reports).

I really wanted the Juke but the back seats are basically pointless. My Pulsar has rear seats that put a Falcon to shame.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462576-nissan-juke/#findComment-7674739
Share on other sites

There are no nismo juke released in australia.

Top of the line is the Ti-s

The nismo juke posted above is the juke R.

20 made in series 1 shape.

20 made in series 2 shape.

And nearly twice the price of a gtr iirc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462576-nissan-juke/#findComment-7674839
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

10.3 kilometers per litre. That's about 9.8l per 100 ks.

I'll admit, not quite Stagea level, but not what I'd call economical.

I have a st-s pulsar (st-l level trim with sss motor and wheels). On my commute to work (majority highway driving) I average about 6.2-6.3L/100kms according to the dash (which is about 6.7L/100 when I calculate it properly, which is better than I get from the missus n15 sss and about the same as I was getting from my mirage). If I drive efficiently and sit on 110kmh instead of 115 to 118 (which is about 110kmh based of the gps and the average speed readout on the dash) then I've had the dash fuel economy read 5.8L/100kms for the round trip to work (125kms). I rarely rev the thing over 3500rpm though because you just don't need to. They pull hard enough between 2500 and 3500 rpm there's no point revving any higher. If anything, they start to choke above 4000rpm.

They are certainly no "hot hatch" like a mazda 3 mps or focus st, etc, but as far as warm hatches go I'm more than happy with mine. They are also a darn sight cheaper than the hot hatches at under 30k.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462576-nissan-juke/#findComment-7690033
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...