Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so i was doing a few launches and then all of a sudden but clutch pedal got stuck to the floor.

After checking we saw the fork pivot fall snapped at the thread. I always heard a squeaking/creaking noise from the box when i pushed the pedal in.. maybe related? ?

I've pulled the box out and now cant get the thread out of the box housing. Will use the thread removal tool and see how that goes.

Clutch is a os-giken twin plate

But my main questions are:

1. Should i wait and order a nismo pivot thats 30% stronger or used a second hand stock one my mate gave me??

2. How should i lube the sleeve and the push out bearing as it seems preety dry.

3. Anything else worth servicing or lubing while the box is out?

4. Any tricks to put the box back in with the car on ramps and jack stands? Getting it out was half a nightmare

5. Also the slave cylinder rod is pushed out a fair bit with fluid leaking from under the rubber cover. Whats the go here?

Any help would be appericiated.. this is the biggest mechanical thing ive done haha thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462615-clutch-fork-pivot-ball-snapped/
Share on other sites

  On 31/01/2016 at 2:25 AM, perzn_34 said:

Hey guys, so i was doing a few launches and then all of a sudden but clutch pedal got stuck to the floor.

After checking we saw the fork pivot fall snapped at the thread. I always heard a squeaking/creaking noise from the box when i pushed the pedal in.. maybe related? ?

I've pulled the box out and now cant get the thread out of the box housing. Will use the thread removal tool and see how that goes.

Clutch is a os-giken twin plate

But my main questions are:

1. Should i wait and order a nismo pivot thats 30% stronger or used a second hand stock one my mate gave me??

2. How should i lube the sleeve and the push out bearing as it seems preety dry.

3. Anything else worth servicing or lubing while the box is out?

4. Any tricks to put the box back in with the car on ramps and jack stands? Getting it out was half a nightmare

5. Also the slave cylinder rod is pushed out a fair bit with fluid leaking from under the rubber cover. Whats the go here?

Any help would be appericiated.. this is the biggest mechanical thing ive done haha thanks

If you have broken a pivot I would be inclined to put the stronger one in. Its not surprising that the slave cylinder has popped out if your pivot has broken. Clean it up and put it back together. Check that your crank seal is not leaking. Gently jack up the front pulley until the cylinder head hits the fire wall while checking to see you don't damage anything in the process (watch the top hose). Put a jack under the gear box and make sure you have a mate to help you.

Since getting the box out and in is a big PITA, as is being stranded, I would definitely go for the Nismo pivot. Box is a bitch to get back in, you need to rotate it (IIRC to get the starter motor lump out of the way) then rotate it back so you cant bolt it up. Maybe i put something about that in my DIY...cant remember.

gktech are fine, the reality is anything stock or stronger will be fine. the issue is that you have been putting huge pressure on it for a while, if it has been squeaking it means it has been rubbing allot on the arm and will have made a groove, check to see if the next one will rub on the old groove, if the contact patch is off and rough it will just wear out, rub, squeek and eventually snap.

if it was lubricated when squeaking ti should have been fine.

  On 01/02/2016 at 12:00 AM, GH05T said:

gktech are fine, the reality is anything stock or stronger will be fine. the issue is that you have been putting huge pressure on it for a while, if it has been squeaking it means it has been rubbing allot on the arm and will have made a groove, check to see if the next one will rub on the old groove, if the contact patch is off and rough it will just wear out, rub, squeek and eventually snap.

if it was lubricated when squeaking ti should have been fine.

Thanks for that, do you know the best type of lubricant to use? any sort of grease you find in supercheap?

Also what do i use on the sleeve and push out bearing for lubricating as it seemed almost dry?

Do i need to lubricate or put anything on the output shaft teeth?

thanks in advance

Don't put anything on the input shaft clutch splines, wire brush clean and then dry.

A light wipe of a heavy molybdenum grease for the throw out carrier.

What's the condition of the spigot bearing. Lot of work just to do that one again. A small dob of high MP grease for him.

How's the actual throw out lever. Check that it's not bent or has any signs of imminent failure.

I'd be looking real hard at it, something has been exerting large sideways loading on the pivot ball and that could mean a bent throw out lever or perhaps a really poor clutch setup.

i.e. Did the slave push rod need modification to get the twin plate to operate properly etc?

  On 31/01/2016 at 9:21 PM, XGTRX said:

I am using a Gktech. No problem so far.

  On 31/01/2016 at 9:21 PM, XGTRX said:

I am using a Gktech. No problem so far.

  On 01/02/2016 at 12:00 AM, GH05T said:

gktech are fine, the reality is anything stock or stronger will be fine.

Same Here. Using A GKTech one with a gismo GMAX Twin plate. No issues.

Edited by R31 drift pig
  On 01/02/2016 at 2:28 AM, jiffo said:

Don't put anything on the input shaft clutch splines, wire brush clean and then dry.

A light wipe of a heavy molybdenum grease for the throw out carrier.

What's the condition of the spigot bearing. Lot of work just to do that one again. A small dob of high MP grease for him.

How's the actual throw out lever. Check that it's not bent or has any signs of imminent failure.

I'd be looking real hard at it, something has been exerting large sideways loading on the pivot ball and that could mean a bent throw out lever or perhaps a really poor clutch setup.

i.e. Did the slave push rod need modification to get the twin plate to operate properly etc?

Follow the lubricating advice here... it's spot on. ;)

So the gktech pivot ball arrived, and i put it on with some thread lock.

I did put a bit of anti seize copper grease on the sleeve for the push out bearing but not much, and some on the pivot ball.

It all looks like the photos below assembled.. if ive done anything wrong with the assembly can anyone tell me please

post-72334-14544629585641_thumb.jpg

post-72334-14544629697128_thumb.jpg

post-72334-14544629823751_thumb.jpg

post-72334-14544630001625_thumb.jpg

Hey guys so after 4 hours under the car jacking the box up and dropping the subframe a bit lower we got the output shaft in the clutch but it wont go all the way in, about 25 - 30mm away from the block. We tried wiggling and moving it up and down but nothing.

My question is being a twin plate clutch would the spline on the different plates moved somehow? as i didnt touch the clutch??

If i put it in 1st gear would it let the output shaft spin with the gearbox housing to line up with the second plate splines?

any advise would be appreciated

thanks

Sounds like its on the cusp of being in. Just prob needs a bit more wiggle jiggle. Unlikely the clutch plates have misaligned if you didn't touch them. I would try throwing a rope around the back end of the box and get someone inside the car to control the rope through the shifter hole, easier to adjust angle like that, while you are underneath trying to push it in. It will prob go in all the way when your trying the least. Make sure u have a bolt ready to go when it does. Lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...